How common is this prest-o-lite hook up

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: How common is this prest-o-lite hook up
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Tuesday, August 01, 2017 - 03:45 pm:

the prest-o-lite co
patented Feb 28 1919
kind of different than the ones I have seen, just came in with the two trailer loads of parts, Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Tuesday, August 01, 2017 - 05:49 pm:

Bob
Im interested in it.
Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Friday, August 04, 2017 - 12:49 pm:



: ^ )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Friday, August 04, 2017 - 02:08 pm:

I really need it for my '14 that has the Prest-O-Lite tank.
What should the PSI be to the head lights?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Friday, August 04, 2017 - 03:44 pm:

Steve-
I believe the Prest-O-Lite Automatic Reducing Valve was set at about 3 psi.

I use the, "just crack the valve open" method.

-Keith



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Parker on Friday, August 04, 2017 - 04:06 pm:

Yes, the "2 ounces" equates to about 3 psi.

I use a small Uniweld two gauge regulator set at 3 or 4 psi. Also, I know what is left in the Prest-O-Lite B tank with the tank pressure.

When POL offered the gauge above, all the tanks had the pressure gauge on them.

Ken in Texas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Marty Bufalini - Grosse Pointe, MI on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 09:06 am:

I really need one, too, for my Prest-O-Lite tank. I don't like the "just crack the valve open" method, although I'm getting better at it. I really don't want a modern looking gauge or gauges on my 14.

Are these vintage regulators safe? What are you using that doesn't look modern? Pics?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 10:42 am:

This one has a tiny screw I think to adjust it, listed on t bay now, Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 11:17 am:

I'm in the same camp as Marty and Keith Townsend. I don't have a regulator and just crack the POL valve a wee bit, have my Wife light the lights, and then adjust the flow for the proper flame height. This works ok for me, but I, too, would like the correct POL regulator.

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 11:41 am:

Just an fyi for anyone thinking about it... The "modern" regulators like this:



Come in pre-set pressure. It is marked in the center of the regulator on the raised part. They are marked, "5LB" or "10LB" like this one.

Has anyone ever tried to use one? Ten pounds would be way too much, but a maybe a regulator marked "5LB" could be dialed down with an outlet flow valve.

Has anyone tried?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Parker on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 06:44 pm:

Keith,

I don't have one BUT I believe there is a needle valve just in front of the hose barb to reduce the pressure some more to do exactly what we are trying to do. I saw these on ebay a while back and the instruction sheet is attached. Note the reference to the needle valve.



Although I try to run the small Uniweld at 3 psi or so, I have run the regulator at 5-7 psi and control the flow with these, same thing:



It sounds like you could just cut down the flow with the included needle valve and function the same way a 3# Prest-O-Lite reducing valve functions....just turn on the B tank and walk to the front of the car and light them.

I think the needle valve would work better but please let us know. I see these reducers every once in a while and you may have to twist the B tank a little to clear the running board. Only drawback is not knowing how much gas is in the B tank but you don't have the ugly little Uniweld <grin>.

Ken in Texas

(Message edited by drkbp on August 06, 2017)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 06:50 pm:

I have one each of the 5 and 10LB with needle valve.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Scholz on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 11:00 pm:

I have been using the generator system, for some years now, and never did look into the prest-o-lite system,
and how it functions. I would appreciate it if someone would give me the run-down, particularly on how
the gas is made. Thanks in advance, George


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Parker on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 10:30 pm:

George,

The only difference is you are using gas out of a tank like is on running board of this little Ford pickup.



You can still get the "B" tanks from your local welding supply. The Prest-O-Lite tanks are embossed around the tank and have the supply valve offset so you can lay them down if you wish.



A full B tank costs about $130. They swap them for about $28 once you own a tank. Model T # 1 was shipped with a Prest-O-Lite tank on it and is definitely an "upgrade" over a carbide generator. I exchange the tanks right off the car.



Ken in Texas


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