Brake rod runs

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Brake rod runs
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 07:48 pm:

Wow... don't remember the brake lines making this much of a bow, before... guess I need to go look for some brake pictures!








Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 08:08 pm:

Move your supports back along the radius rod. I just put these on our '23 and the rods are completely straight from the brake lever to the emergency brake cross-over


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 08:12 pm:

And turn around them so the open part goes on from the bottom - you have them on reversed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 08:33 pm:



And place the support approx. 18" down the radius rod from the bolts attaching it to the backing plate.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 08:57 pm:

aw jeez

missed that entirely. Am slipping!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 10:17 pm:

Argh... so, I apparently have my radius rods swapped, as , come to think about it... they were that way befprei pulled them off for the differential rebuild. Shouldn't be harmed to swap the brake rod supports, though.

I've never been satisfied with getting the emergency brakes adjusted right. I just read in the service manual (section 75c) that the brakes shoukd 'set tightly when the hand brake lever is in a vertical position. I thought that should be neutral for the transmission... and the wheels free wheeling. If that is where the hand brake lever position should be for starting the engine... it makes more sense to have it actually be a brake position.

Then, later in that same section, you should jack the car up and make sure the wheels are locked, when the hand brake is all the way back. So.... locked , with the lever all the way back, and just 'right with it vertical? Locked, all the way back makes sense... I'm just confirming the lever 's vertical position.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 10:20 pm:

Another question... there is a dimple on each radius rod, well forward of the current brake rod support arms. Might that be from someone's previous support mountpositions, or do they serve another purpose?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, August 07, 2017 - 11:44 pm:

Dennis, the radius rods can be fitted either way up. However, the split seam on the later ones needs to be at the bottom to avoid them getting water in them and consequently rusting out from within.

On any rod, the brake rod support has the bolt above the rod, meaning the open end of the clamping section is at the top and the arm holding the rod points downwards. The angle of the loop through which the rod passes will then govern which side the particular support will fit.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 07:37 am:

Allan ... yes ... and I am a bit embarrased that I knew all of the above, well before I started the rear end rebuild. I let my 'common sense' and excitement ... get in the way of facts when I was getting close to the finish line, and just thought the support arms made sense to 'hold up' the loops at the end, rather than have them suspend down. If I had thought it through, I would have remembered from taking them apart!

I'm not going to swap the radius rods back as I already split my finished diff and drive shaft assymbly once, by forgetting to put them on once .... and then forgetting yet again, once everything was all sealed up, and bolted tight, painted, etc ..... to put the U-joint yoke back in FRONT of the rods!

Never get old. It's not becoming.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 09:47 am:

Dennis

The radius rods should be removable without disassembling the axle, but yes, it'll chip some paint


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 10:29 am:

I tried when I forgot to put them on the first time. I didn't have to fully disassemble ... but had to loosen up the drive shaft spool bolts enough to pull it out enough to have the radius rod 'fingers' slide pass the axle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 12:41 pm:

Scott,

They are not removable without first removing the torque tube.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 07:00 pm:

Jerry, they usually are removable without doing anything other than backing the hex nut right back as far as it will go so the rod can be forced forward as far as possible. A little flex and maybe some encouragement from a rubber mallet at the yoke, will usually allow the yoke end to pass by the axle tube. As Scott indicated, there may be a little paint touch up needed, but this is far easier than any alternative.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 09:50 pm:

Bending the rods might have done it, but I wasn't willing to do that. My bolts wouldn't back off far enough. I would have needed another 1/2".

Wouldn't ha know... once I took the rod clamps off, and swapped them.. they mounted right back where they were, and the clevises fit perfectly, with now bow in the line, or silly extensions I made. LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 09:53 pm:

The small drum radius rods can indeed be removed or replaced with the torque tube in place - the large drum ones cannot !

I'm in the process of rebuilding a small drum Ruckstell with an original Ruckstell 13 - 40 gear set which one cannot install the radius rods because one has to install the driveshaft & torque tube onto the Ruckstell side due to the larger size of the pinion gear - once the torque tube is bolted up, the other housing is bolted up THEN the radius rods get installed - only way to do it correctly !


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