In serious need of help. Something is seriously out of wack with my 26 coupe. I went to take it out today to test out the cooling of the new fan and pulley. Reversed out of the garage just fine. I'd had an issue before with low band stalling so I tested it forward in the garage before backing out. Went forward fine. Reversed out to turn. Went to low band to pull forward and go down the small hill out into the road to do a 1/2 mile down and back to test the fan. Stall. Wash, rinse repeat for the next 2 hours. Tried to reverse the car all the way around and back it back into the garage. Almost made it but on a minuscule hill reverse refuses to back me up the hill. Was forced to go down the small hill. Went looser on the clutch band, still stalling, went tighter on the clutch band, still stalling. I am now literally stuck at the foot of the small hill. I didn't even make it out of the drive way. What the H*** is causing this!? Now even on a flat I depress reverse and I can here the band catching ans drum whining but it won't even go backwards on a flat. Still stalling in low band.
open the cover and see what it looks like in there
Matt - check your mixture as well. One of my bugs has a real loose (I mean REAL LOOSE) choke/mixture rod. Every once in awhile, with all the vibrations, she'll lean herself out to the point of stalling. It could be your mixture is very lean and the drag of the low band is enough to stall her.
Sounds like mine last year at the tail end of my drive to storage. Finally had to tow it the last couple miles. I was so frustrated, I didn't put anti-freeze in the rad ... and over the winter, it apparently cracked the head ... that led to getting an engine rebuild.
BUT .... in the spring (before the head fully split) ... Someone had posted 'fuel starvation'. By golly, I think they were right. I cleaned the screen in the sweet potato under the tank, pulled the carberator, cleaned, blew out the main jet, put back together, and ran like a top.
Your mileage may vary ....
I didn't even think of a fuel blockage. It idles fine though.....I'm thinking bands are way out of adjustment, or something is broken. I've fiddled with the bands but am having no luck. What's weird is I drove it 2 miles 3 weeks ago with no problems.
How easily will the car back up if you simply try to hand push it while it's in neutral??
Driving takes more gas than idling. I suspect insufficient fuel. How much is in the tank? If the bands are adjusted so the pedals stop an inch to two inches above the floor board, that should be OK.
I don't think you're blocked necessarily- I think your mixture is way lean. Adjust her to full seat, back off one/ o e and a half turns and see if she stalls when you put her in low.
Two things in your initial post caught me. One is "went looser on the clutch band,went tighter on the clutch band" and "I can hear the band catching the drum and drum whining".
If I understand this as I think I do, your engine is still running but the car doesn't move in reverse, it just makes a noise. That sounds like the band is too loose and needs adjustment. This is done by removing the floorboard and the inspection plate over the transmission. The nut on the reverse band (the band closest to the engine) needs to be tightened about one turn. When it is adjusted right, the pedal should be tight about one inch above the floorboard. It would also be a good time to check for crack in the drum. Jack up at least one rear wheel and leave the parking brake lever all the way forward and have someone turn the crank as you look very carefully at the drum. Turn the engine at least one turn all the way around to inspect the drum. There should be no crack. If there is a crack, you will need to rebuild the transmission replacing the drum.
The pedal should be held down tight when you are in either low or reverse. The idea is to keep the drum from turning. The speed is adjusted with the throttle. I like to pull the hand brake into neutral so I can use the left foot on the low or reverse and leave the right foot free to use the brake. Some people try to slip the drums like they would gradually slip a manual clutch when using the gears. That is a mistake when driving a Model T. The pedal should be tight so the drum does not slip. Slipping the drum will just speed up band wear and overheat the drums.
If I was wrong understanding what you said, and you were really talking about killing the engine, then it could be the fuel mixture or spark advance adjustment. Also too slow an idle could also cause the problem.
UPDATE: Think the problem has been sourced. When pulling the coupe by chain back up the hill it was in neutral. Rear wheels barely moved then locked up. Something must be up with the hand brake then. What's weird is it has never been adjusted since I've owned it and has never been a problem before. Is it possible the brake shoe (26 coupe so actual shoe in this case) is sprung/stuck engaged?
Oof. Perhaps I'm going off in a wrong direction. I forget but how's your rear axle?
You know how we are Matthew. Brake problems? How's that rear axle internally?
Straighten me out if I'm way off base and thank you for your update. :-)
Rear wheels barely moved then locked up."
I had rear wheels lock up once. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html
"UPDATE: Think the problem has been sourced. When pulling the coupe by chain ...."
Hence my question above. Yes, pull your wheels off and check your parking brakes first.
Wheels not turning in neutral. could be anything locked up between the flywheel and the rear axles. Could be parking brake as Steve shows in his picture, it could be a cracked drum as in my picture (attached) It could be something in the rear axle assembly.
First I would remove the plate on top of the transmission and examine the drums. If it is there, the engine and transmission must come out.
If the transmission looks OK, next thing would be to jack up both rear wheels. with the rear wheels off the ground, you should be able to turn one wheel. The opposite wheel will turn in the opposite direction. If so, the differential is good. Next with the parking brake lever forward try cranking the engine. It should crank freely and the rear wheels should turn. Note, if one brake is tighter than the other perhaps only one wheel will turn. If it won't turn in high gear, you could have something in the rear axle locked up. such as pinion gear or other problem. Anyway try to isolate the trouble to either the transmission or rear axle. Then you can pull whichever you need to fix the problem.
I think I'm an idiot. Riddle me this: I was talking with a MTFCA member about my issue and they mentioned maybe my clutch plate wasn't engaging right. I then had a visual flash back to this morning when I was filming this video. You know how the hand brake has a pin hat connects to the clutch rod right? There's also that rod that runs from the clutch pedal to the clutch rod that sticks out from the hogshead. Well I think the pin for the pedal side is missing and so that little rod is just hanging there loose! That could definitely be causing the clutch to not be engaging correctly, right? I'll check it when I get home from work. But if that's it and I've been glancing over it for days I'm going to feel like a complete idiot......
That's it. Without that link, the only way to disengage the high gear clutch is with the parking brake handle.
Picture of the link and how to adjust it is here:
I think you found the cause of the problem! No you are not an idiot. Put that pin in and you will have saved yourself a lot of unnecessary work!