New seat spring fit on the seat frame question.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: New seat spring fit on the seat frame question.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 10:21 pm:

Bought and received new springs for the '18 Runabout lately (7-'17 body and very original except the primer/paint).
I've replaced some hardware/missing rivets and the lower tack rail wood down on the seat frame has all new screws in original positions and a gas tank door/front seat frame lid is in place, no hinges yet.
The screws I installed to hold the seat frame together probably need to be replaced with flat headed rivets.

Seat spring is pushed forward to the front lip on the seat frame in the pics.
Pic 1 shows the seat spring nestled against the lower tack rail down on the seat frame on the passenger's side.
I'm going to have wear issues with the fabric.

1

Pic 2 shows the rear corner on the passenger's side. Looks OK to me.

2

Pic number 3 shows the rear corner on the driver's side. Looks OK to me.

3

Pic 4 shows the spring base is actually riding up on the driver's side lower tack rail on the seat frame.
I'm going to have serious wear issues with the fabric/upholstery here and on the passenger's side.

4

Do I have the seat spring narrowed at a local welding shop?
I have not contacted the maker yet and asked if they'd have a seat spring that happened to be narrower.

Have you folks ever seen this before?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould, Folsom, CA on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 10:41 pm:

You need room for upholstery. More than you think. Ask a T upholsterer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 10:46 pm:

Duey, you should be able reshape the crimped base to fit, rather than cutting/shutting/welding. The wire around the base should be hi-tensile and welding will destroy this. It may also help if you fit new tack strips and position them as you need.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 11:27 pm:

Richard, I needed to hear that. Thank you. :-) I should ask Mike at Classtique about clearances as that's where it'll come from.
Never thought about the wire hidden inside the aluminum base Allan. I have to go look now. Didn't find it but it sure doesn't mean it isn't there. :-)
Yes, I could refit the tack strips for some clearance and drill new mount holes in the seat frame towards the outside for the tack strip screws.
Hmmm.
You have me on reshaping the crimped base tho.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks guys. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 03:30 am:

Actually Duey, there may not be a wire, given you have the crimped channel. Check it where it is not crimped. If no wire, reshaping the back edge should be easier. In effect, all you need to do is shift the corner bend up the side of the frame a little. This means making the corner bends sharper on the side and opening them up a little on the long back side. This will make the back a little wider, but you appear to have room for this.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 05:51 am:

If you make a paper pattern of the spring you need and send it to Snyder's they will make you exactly what you need. I did this for my '11; I made 2 copies of the pattern, sent one to Snyder's and one to the upholstery company I used, and everything fit perfectly. They turn the orders around pretty quickly.

Snyder's makes all (or at least) most of the 'T' seat springs available. See if you can return the one you bought to the vendor, then get exactly what you need.


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