Has anyone had problems with alternators (6volt) from any of our venders? Two out of 3 that I purchased had problems with the gears not meshing properly. A very high pitch sound. These were purchased within the last week. Upon examining them I discovered that the gears on them were a bit larger. I will have to call the vender in the morning.
I run a 6 volt system and switched from generator to alternator about 2 years ago and have been very satisfied with the one I purchased from Buckeye Auto Electric. They are located at 547 Hoyt St -- Painesville, OH and their phone number is 1-800-USA-5561.
Whatever charging unit you choose, extra gaskets, or less, may have to be addressed at the generator mounting bracket to adjust the gear mesh. More noise means less clearance and needs a extra gasket or two.
What Bob said!
I have a retro-fitted 12-volt electrical system on my '15 Touring and the alternator has never worked right. -I indicate a 2-amp discharge when idling and that's nothing compared to the 10-amp battery-drain I get when using my headlights. -The quick-and-dirty answer to this problem has been the monthly application of a house-current battery charger, but it ain't right. -One of these days, I'll get around to taking the car to a specialized auto electric shop and get the stupid thing properly fixed.
15 years past a Becker 6 volt was installed on my T.
Before installing I noticed the gear was wobbling on the input shaft. it is a screw on gear. I removed it stuck it in a lathe------the rear of the gear had 20 thou run out it was cut off but not turned true----after turning the rear of the gear true it ran true on the alternator and has performed well for the rest of the time.
I`ve got 6volt alternators on model Ts and a Model A. Just wondering if the internal voltage regulation is adjustable? After starting, I seem to get 30 amps output for a short period, then a dropoff to about 6 to 8 amps (on the ammeter) thereafter. I`d like to limit the maximum output to no more than 20 amps if possible, to prevent blowing my 20 amp fuse protection on other circuits. Anyone know if this is possible? Thanks, paul
It's easy on a generator. Just move the third brush. Funny how the "Solution" to so many problems just pose other problems.
Back to the gear whine. Just as with a stock generator, you add or subtract gaskets behind the mounting casting to get your correct gear mesh.
Typically there is no current adjustment on alternators. This is largely why you have to have a specific alternator model for a specific car since typically the current limit is designed into the cabling and its resistance within the car it is installed into. On the 60's mustangs the wire from the alternator to the battery not only limited the current it was used as a resistor "shunt" for the pseudo "ammeter" on the dash. It really was not calibrated in amps but did register if there was a voltage drop at the wire ends and that made the gauge move in the right direction to show a charge. When that cable is loose it can make the meter show a huge charge when in fact there isn't much. It was a cheap car
Bob,the manufacture instructions say to not use a gasket because it would interfere with the internal cooling fan,but use silicone. I also shimmed it, & then trimmed a gasket with no change.
The gasket goes between the engine and the generator mount/casting, to move the gears apart (generator/cam gear). This will stop the whining, or excessively deep meshing of the gears. I suspect you have this confused with the gasket between the generator and it's mount, and if so, you have misunderstood Bob's above advice.
Scott, thank you for clairifing that. I now know what he is taking about. Tim
I have one on one of my Ts but no noises.
The problem Bob is experiencing of minimal or no output at idle is common to single wire alternators. It is easy to fix with a two wire but most Model T guys want to have a single wire to enable the use of the standard wiring harness.
Somewhere in one of the manuals it does mention shimming out the generator away from the camshaft gear to get the correct gear mesh. I'm not sure how to do it without major disassembly of the front of the motor as both gears are not visible.
Anyone seen instructions or know how to go about it?
Gear mesh car be observed visually with a flashlight shining thru the oil fill.