Without starting WWIII, I've got a depot hack that the wooden body needs some TLC. I don't want to sand the entire body down to bare wood, but the panels themselves will be rplaced and stained and reassembled.
I have no idea what is on the body now, but the restoration was done in 1996, so whatever that technology was.
My understanidn is that poly is not water tight, so what do experienced wood workers or hack or pie wagon or pedlers cart owners prefer? Shellac, varnish, spar varnish, etc. And what gloss level? Gloss, semi, matte?
The supports appear to be oak and the panels will be oak ply with English Walnut stain. The supports and ribs are left natural for a little contrast without looking like a checkerboard.
My intention is to spray with a Fuji turbine HVLP system whichever vehicle is selected with fine sanding between coats.
I'll hang up and listen.
I like Sand and Seal from Ace Hardware. Let the wood soak in as much as it needs. Can paint over it but I've used a couple of coats of Marine Spar Varnish for the 'natural' look.
I re-finished the varnish on my depot hack several years ago and it seems to be holding up very well. Upon the recommendation of a local woodworking supplier, I used Minwax Spar Varnish. Good stuff!
Depends on what look you are going for, since I wanted my bed to look old I used 1/4 Rustoleum satin black and 3/4 Boiled linseed oil then hand rubbed looks good
Let me clarify a little. I'm not sanding down to bare wood on the parts already finished, so anything that needs to penetrate or soak in will not work. I am staining the ply panels a English Oak with oil based stain.
What I am seeking is what clear coat finish is recommended by the wood body T owners.
I will be spraying a clear protective coat or coats of something satin or glossy. I was thinking spar varnish, but I thought I read a dig about using spar varnish on T's
Robert, no matter what you do, someone will criticize it. It's the world we live in. Test some wood and do what pleases you.
My dad's hack is done in spar varnish and looks wonderful. Every 4-5 years he will gently sand worn spots, scuff everything up and then spend a pleasant day recoating it. He has done this since 1976 and there is no evidence of too much coating.
Hello Robert: When I bought my Depot Hack from Pleasantville Manufacturing it was painted or sprayed with CLEAR SPAR varnish and it looks great. That is about 5 years ago. I have been using the same thing on the HANDMADE CLOCKS that I make
Robert if you are not sanding down the whole body you will notice the difference between the old and new finish as the new will appear more "clear" grained than the older varnish. A way to remedy this is to do toning either by mixing anolin dyes with a base coat of shellac or use a thinned mix of amber shellac,this is used only to establish color and is not a finish. You will still need to topcoat to match sheen and provide durability. As a side note the shellacs are not exterior rated but as I am sure the car is a garaged hobby car and only out in the elements breifly it should be just fine. Also if you use a spar varnish let it cure well before sanding as it stays soft longer than a regular varnish and will gum up sand paper. the way I like to do finishes is to establish a good base coat and then antique the body before the final clear coats, differing ways to do that process but takes it away from the just varnished look a bit of patina.
oh and also any toning has to e sprayed on to keep it even, if you try doing this first practice on a bit of scrap and fog on with your hvlp
Make sure you look at the varnish you use. Spar varnish has UV protection. Polyurethane does not have UV protection.
I'm leaning towards spar varnish for the protective coating.
Does everyone go high gloss? or do some tone it down with semi or satin?
I don't want it to look like plastic. The metal work will be gloss, but I coated the battery box with high gloss and I'm not in love with the finish.
Sikens marine varnish..
Back in the day, the old timers used MBT. Sorry I just could not stop my fingers from doing that.
Just to throw it out there, Rustoleum has a non-yellowing clear coat...and several other varieties of clear coat that are NOT labeled as non-yellowing.
On my body from Pleasantville I sprayed 3 coats of spar varnish with 2 days drying between coats. Cleaning up each coat with fine steel wool between each coat. You have to have a really dust free space as the varnish attracts dust for hours. The spar varnish has UV protection and Poly does not. Many years later and it still has a beautiful look to it.
The point of the spar varnish is the ability to touch up and re-coat. The "modern" urethanes and poly coatings ultimately fail, then need a total strip to be redone.
Tried and true, a good coat of high gloss varnish is a fine thing.