A friend sent me this picture of his newly made engine stand. It looks well made and flexible - height adjustable, rotating with ease and feet to hold it in place when the castors are not in use.
What does your engine stand look like and what are the best features for you?
I made mine with a sliding adjustment so it can be centered between #3 and #4 (with transmission) or between #2 and #3 (engine only).
KRW stand on wheels. The front "T" comes off so that engine hoists can approach from the front. I love it.
Very sturdy and solid.
Thanks for the idea on wheels Scott, just aquired mine a few months ago.
Notice by the left pan pin the bracket is bent a bit. Any ideas on how to straighten?
I make this one.
I think if you simply fit a nut to the bent pin to protect the threads, and give a few judicious smacks, it will straighten sufficiently
Norco doubled ended with a gearbox. Adaptable to a variety of applications, particularly where you need support on both ends. I had to add about 14" to the tie bar to accommodate straight-eights.
Scott it's actually the cast iron part that is bent.
I can see that now...and realize why you're asking the question.
You know, I'll bet it's maleable iron and not cast. KRW made first rate tools. If it bent without breaking in the first place, I THINK it should bend back (please don't send me the repair bill if it does break!)
Myself, I'd be inclined to contact a shop FIRST that specializes in cast iron repair and ask their opinion as to hot or cold bending.
Check your local scrap yard.
Made from 2X10s:
Chris B, those pins are there just to hang the block on. Rather than straightening the casting, and the subsequent risks, if you fit a slightly undersized pin that will still allow the block to be lowered into place, you are good to go.
On my home built stand those two pins are 5/16" so there is clearance around the pan rail bolt holes.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
that's a nifty setup, and the castings look to be very high quality...on the order of investment castings...
where did you find that? Or did you have it made?
First I found an engine stand at a yard sale for $5.00 then I welded some angle iron this is the result.
All are interesting. Steve J, the roadster is parked close to the eng stand isn't it?
Scott My 82 yr old model A buddys dod was a model T mechanic back in the day and he let me have it and yes I have all bolt in now
Here's one I recently picked up - Manley - not seen one like it as it has a spud that indexes into the side water inlet and bolts up there along with the two block/pan rail holes. It rotates 360 degrees and tips up & down.
Plan on using it shortly on a "freshen-up".
Some nice stands here and I really like the bench mounted that Randal has but you can't roll it around! I would like one of those though.
An engine stand is cheap and can be used for many things, I have fitted a spindle on mine and used it to paint wheels while I spin them.
If I ever contribute anything worthwhile on this forum it may be this; if you have a cheap engine stand that is fine but if it is the 3 point "tripod" take off that front wheel and replace it with a piece of square tube and 2 castor wheels so you have 4 wheels on the ground and not 3. If you have the 3 wheel type and try to push it around and hit anything small, even a dropped nut you can upset everything and watch your motor crash to the concrete. Cast iron doesn't like to bend but sure can break easy.
If you keep the tricycle arraignment I highly suggest you add something else across the front like an old leaf spring or steel stock so it can't tip over. $10 can save you much money and no injury.
A 2 wheel bike will fall over sideways easy, a tripod falls over easy pushing on the front but my 4 wheel stands seem quite stable!
Thank you for this post.
I have a 'tricycle' stand, and have been very careful with it, as it does want to easily tip.......BUT...you convinced me to change it for a forward cross channel with a pair of casters....
Will do that before it's used again
Nice warning to heed!
Sage advice, Tim - my 3 wheeler got retired from engine assembly duty for that reason !
Tim I have wheels on my table
Scott C. - what did you use to install that wheel set on your KRW stand ?
rear wheels are Cast Iron wheels with (I think) needle bearings. Front wheels are Cast Iron Swivel castors. All purchased from either MSC or Grainger.
The rear cross member is welded closed on each end (3/4" slug of metal machined for press fit into end of tube with 1/4" sticking out and welded in place with nice fat fillets up to end of tube) and is tapped for something like 1/2" thread and the "axle" is a bolt tightened down on the wheel's center bearing...very sturdy with no flex. I used hardened bolts for the axles.
The front wheels are bolted to angle iron that had some fancy gussets added to it just because I was practicing welding. The whole front "axle" is removable after you jack up the center beam with a threaded pad and "T" handle. It is pinned and bolted in place when wheeling around and removed to belly up the hoist to mount (then promptly replaced for safety). Front and rear cross members are thick-wall tubing and are about 1/4 inch off the floor as it sits.If an axle or weld failed, there would be a very short drop, but at this point I have pretty good faith in the whole thing. The platform the stand is on is a beast. With the pad screwed down a little you'd think the thing was bolted to the floor. It was a very worthwhile project and much more versatile than just bolting to the floor.
Randall that is by far the best Model T engine stand I've seen so far, that is impressive.
Thanks Scott - nice addition in that you can still access the block with a rolling crane. I've normally had my KRW bolted to the floor but since relocating, haven't found a place in the new shop to plant it and I like the idea of it being mobile ! I've seen & passed on the KRW accessory wheel attachments - both the whole wheeled platform and an "add-on" wheel kit - one would have to use an overhead crane & gantry.