I've looked through a couple of the vendors' catalogues, but can't find this manifold gasket.
Does anyone know who may have them, and the part number?
Thank you Mark, and Tom.
It's a very good idea, and they made them in the old days too. They are quite expensive.
Are they so much better than the perfectly adequate stock gaskets that they're worth nearly four times as much?
The original style crush rings are delicate & flimsy. Given the thickness of the material, I would guess that these are far less prone to burning out, falling apart, and blowing out.
Just to look at them, I really can't imagine one ever burning out.
That said, I have not tried them... yet.
I have "heard" on here in the past that they are thicker and hard to get crush and confirm. They certainly look good and a great idea though. Can someone confirm about the installation and sealing of these?
I personally use the stock gland and rings and the seem to work just fine.
Just checked out the website. One set, uninsured, is $30, postage included. That's $5 each. Maybe that's 4 times as much, but it's still cheap. Especially if they last longer...
(Actually, from Lang's, a full set including the steel liners, would cost me $8.65 + $3.42 parcel post, (to my address anyway), or $12.07)
I have used these thick stamped gaskets once, and yes, they are hard. Suspect the forming operations harden the material, don't think they got annealed after. Were just too hard to crush successfully, and caused leak.
Replaced them with the vendor Ford original style steel glands and copper crush rings.
Note how the circular edges just deformed to a curve like shape before the center section had a chance to 'crush' and bring the manifold close to the block. That allowed leakage, esp. on the intake manifold. That plus the added torque needed to attempt the crush put real strain on the manifold nuts and studs when I tried to get better seal. Was afraid I would strip out the end of the stud threads
The best 2 ways to set the heavier copper set is to anneal them first with a bunsen burner and then tighten or per the old instructions that came with the five sets I bought, set in place tighten, then run the engine and tighten while running for a better seal. I bought those years ago before the vendors started to carry them. I'm thinking it was at Chickasha or as one of our members would say Chickensaw.
They are pricey because they are made in Australia, dollar difference and postage and the vendors mark-up all reflect on the retail price.
I seem to recall a thread on those one-piece seals some time ago. I think there was a problem with them being too thick. Have they been remade or is my brain cell weak.
I really like these gaskets because i believe they seal the best if properly installed. The one trick i believe works the best is to pre-fit, and dress each gasket separately to make sure they sit flush, or just slightly proud on both sides. I think most of the crush should be on the outside ring, and not the inner. Also re-torquing after hot a few times, like a head gasket makes for a nice solid seal...Just my 2 cents.
I won't go into to many details. I tried these same gaskets and every one that I tried is out in my bucket of scrap copper. However to be fair it was a long time ago and it never occurred to me to anneal them before installing. Still, I won't be digging them out of the scrap to try them again and I'll continue to use the two piece glands and rings.
Like Mike, I also like the ones in Bergstadt's link
Just bought my second set 1st set on a car sold couple years ago.
They work great if the manifolds are in great shape
I haven't had the troubles Jerry described with the originals. Maybe I spend too much time being broken down and not enough driving.
I have just fitted my second set. I was thankful for the extra thickness of the material. It allowed me to file the inner side so that there was a slight taper, which in turn made lining up the ports much easier. I have not had to anneal them. The heat from repeated cycles does that for me. I just check them after running and re-tension as needed.
We have a product called 'Maniseal". I use it to affect a proper seal at each port. It also helps to hold the gaskets in place during fitting.
Allan from down under.
Steve, despite all the setbacks you've had recently, i really admire your persistence to overcome the problems, and get your T's back on the road where they belong.
I've recommended these several times in the past, most recently last week. Looked forever at Langs but can't find them there. Tom Strickling already posted Snyders link so no need to do it again from me. They're worth it. I swear by them.
When fitting, check to make sure that you don't have a shallow counterbore in either a manifold or block port. Even carbon buildup from not previously running gland rings can make for a bad crush.