Are there two varying sizes for the rear T axle & hub or is mine so wore out I've excessive play? This is not a TT if that is in question. If i tighten the axle nut too much, the drum plate locks against the backing plate/brakes themselves. I purchased a shim for it and that simply crinkled.
There is only one size. Either your hub or axle or both is severely worn out. Shims are a Band-Aid at best. Some people like them, I do not.
Or you might have interference with the wood wheel hub bolt nuts striking perhaps the emergency brake shoe.
If new bolts with modern nuts, then they might have too thick a nut or if lock washers were incorrectly place there, interference could occur. Just something else to check.
Or can happen as Jerry posted, when excess wear of the taper of the hub is worn oversize, and allows the wheel to slip further on the matching axle shaft taper. Happens to most original hubs that haven't been kept tight on the axle shaft!
(Message edited by Dan_treace on August 16, 2017)
Thanks gentleman. I expected the rear hub to be worn but wanted to confirm. And to Dan's point, if i tighten the hub to preference, the hub is worn to an extent the brake drum pushes against the bolt heads holding the brakes.
Different concern however, the T is very stiff to push with no bands engaged and the rear wheels free of resistance. I expect the ball cap is the problem and may be too small? I disconnected the drive shaft a while back and was able to push with no resistance. The drum bands are loose and I'm slowing tightening them as they seat themselves from recent replacement.
You pushing concern may be related to setting of 'free neutral'.
The Ford doesn't have a real neutral anyway, the clutch spring is compressed when pulling back on the Long handled clutch/emergency brake lever whose cam rotates against the clutch adj. screw. That screw controls the compression of the clutch spring to release pressure on the clutch plates.
You may have to turn in the clutch adj. screw to gain a better neutral. When adj. correct, the T should not creep forward when running and the Long handle lever pulled up, but not engaging the rear hub brake shoes. And the T should also be easy to push around on flat surface when engine is off.
Good point Dan. I'll be able to work on it tomorrow and investigate further. When the engine is running it is not trying to inch forward and there is decent pedal travel before the car engages forward.