Looking for advice on removing Gasoline tank on 1926 Ford Roadster. Can the tank be cleaned in place?
Hi, David. I don't have suggestions for removing the tank although I'm probably facing that in the future with my 26 touring.
Cleaning the tank will be a problem because of the two baffles inside. One is just to the right of the filler cap and the other is about half way between that baffle and the right hand end of the tank.
I used a 1/2" siphon hose with a 1/2" copper tube pushed into one end. I was able to push this down into the lowest (forward) part of the tank, move it back and forth and pull out quite a bit of tramp material. Strained the gas as it came out, poured it back in and tried again. Didn't get much this time. BUT, I was only working between the left hand end of the tank and the first baffle. It's a problem.
I think someone posted on this forum about actually cutting the tank open in a couple places, cleaning it out and welding it back up. Seems drastic and dangerous.
I solved the problem by buying another tank. Good luck. Bob
Here is an older post with details for removal. Steps are shown too in the Ford Service, Chapter XLII.
This picture makes it easier to understand how the baffles keep the majority of the tank from being cleaned by mechanical means. It takes chemicals and cutting the tank open in a couple places to really get it truly clean.
I soaked mine in mild acid for a couple days to loosen the rust then jacked the back end of the car as high as I could get it, removed the plug and screen from the sediment bulb, and drained/flushed it with water until the stream coming out was consistently clear. After that I dried the tank by filling it to the brim with fresh gas and draining samples until there was no water showing.
It won't be perfect but I think it's good enough for now.
I'm working on that now. Pain to get out compared to what the black books says. My thoughts ?
Leave the pedals alone , don't move them. only move as ness.
Some people haven't had hang ups with closed cars. Seems with open cars (mine is 26/27 Touring) have had to loosen steering column and unbolt and lower dashboard. I had to do this. I was unable to get the dash out completely however, by removing the four bolts that attach the steering column to firewall it allowed me to lower the dash enough to be able to lower and rotate the tank out. An extra set of hands do help.
As far as cleaning out and coating the tank, have heard good reports on POR15 system. You can also check for a local radiator repair shop to to flush, clean and coat the tank .
POR15 and the vendors sell the kit foe $80/90 bucks.
I found it on Amazon for 60/65 bucks. I got mine from amazon.
I suspect the the difference in distance from dash to firewall maybe be an inch or two ,so the closed cars may be easier to get out, Open cars just drop the dash to get out.
Remember to coat the inside of the overflow/spill tube with the gas tank sealer. Any leaks in this tube will allow fuel to run out on the ground. The sealing can be done to the inside of the tube and doesn't require access to the inside of the tank.
Not as easy removal as Ford manual would lead one to believe. It took the steps George outlined plus some choice words. I was wrestling with the tank and it fell out. Local radiator shop cleaned and sealed mine. The owner was somewhat confused - he had two 26 tanks come in his shop the same week. Odd occurrence for small town.