What is the best way to bend the timing commutator rod? I was going to purchase a set of tools but they were out when I place the order and didn't want to back-order and pay double shipping. Would anyone have measurement to make one or any suggestion?
I used a 1/4 inch tubing bender that worked well.
I wouldn't waste money on a tool for this. Spend it on something you really need. Just put the rod in a vise and bend it by hand.
First, set the timing. Then bend the rod to fit between the lever and the timer without having to move either one. No measuring needed.
When bending the rod to fit, be sure it misses the top timer screw and terminal.
I agree with Steve, the set of three bending tools from the vendor is nice but not really necessary.
If you are determined to get a set of the bending tools that the vendors offer, I have a set that I can send you for $20.00, which includes USPS Priority flat rate shipping. PM me if interested.
X2, with Steve. Mine has many bends in it to get it to clear everything, and to get the right length.
I keep several "new " vendor supplied commutator timing rods around---they are prebent to the correct shape and only require a small adjustment forward or back at the last "bend " at the timer. Pretty cheap and much less hassel than trying to reshape existing rods which have been bent badly, over the years....Paul
A few more notes on this subject.
If your timer pull rod has been abused by people who bent it not knowing what they were doing it might be better to just buy a new one. They are cheap.
The new rods have the correct shape bend in the lower end of the rod I.E. the rod should go under the water inlet tube ONLY and NOT under the inlet tube area where the hose resides. The radiator tube kits sold today have longer than original radiator hose pieces and if you do not shorten the bottom hose (nearest the radiator) the hose will increase the diameter of the area where the rod runs interfering with the rod's travel and not allow correct movement of the timer case for proper spark advance.
After the timer case has been set to the correct initial timing point only the TOP of the timer pull rod should be bent to get it to connect into the timer hole without changing the timer case location. If you having to bend the lower section of the rod something is amiss.
If you are making a slight adjustment, make sure it doesnt get back on the hole for the rod on the new day timer. Dont ask how I know.
I have replaced the timing rod with a new one from one of the vendors. When I have the retard adjusted the rod has some play as I think it should. When you advance the timing the rod gets tight and seems to be binding. The timing lever seems to only go about 3/4 of the way down and will not go completely down. This leaves the timing 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the belt. The belt is flipped so it favors the left side (drivers side) of the engine. I have a new New Day timer that I want to install ( I know some like some do not) but would like it to not bind before I install it. I will try and get it to move freely using a vise. Would anyone know if the timing lever on a 1926 Roadster should go all the way down or is it normal to only travel 3/4 on these cars?
Be sure the small lever on the end of the spark lever has no play and is no loose on the shaft. In many cases this play will not allow the small lever not to move for the first inch of travel of the spark lever rod quadrant. Also be sure the area of the water inlet tube /spark lever routing I discussed above is not interfering with the lever movement.
Both are common problems with spark lever travel and hence timer case movement.
I kinda like the little swivels on the steering column side. You can thread the rod, then dial in the exact distance .... and back it with a stop nut. If you like to play around with different timers this makes it much easier.
The spark lever is nice and tight on the shaft and has no play. I can place my hand under the water tube and so that is not what is binding. It was hitting the block but I have moved it away. It seems that when the lever is pulled it is hitting the steering shaft and limiting it from full movement and possibly the angles of the rod ends are off a little. I will tear into it and see if I can tweak it and get it working smooth.