For some years I have a had a very nice (NOS?) brass carb which will not seat the float valve with any tightness. I'd really like to rebuild this and put on one of my cars...My experience with NH and Kingston later carbs is that they respond nicely to brutal heat and handling for purpose of disassembly on the really bad ones. This, of course, is a different animal. I do not wish to bugger up screw heads and know enough to do this kind of work with gunsmith screwdrivers and not standard screwdrivers...however when screws are obstinate, I am curious as to how to convince them to release...The particular problem is of brass screws in brass castings...I suspect that at best, I will be making some new screws...at worst I will be drilling/tapping...
What have you done and what did you find lead to success (short of Queuing up in Stan Howe's wait list )
I'm a big fan of ATF and acetone. Mix it 50/50, and hit all of those screws. Can even just dunk the whole carb in it and let it sit. I'd be surprised if screws don't come right out.
to the top just this once for any more input
Here's my two cents; take a screwdriver that properly fits the slot, put a little tension on the handle and then give the top of the screwdriver a whack with a light hammer. that should loosen the screw enough to turn it by hand without damage.
Age old trick that works every time, worked for me all my working life as a gunsmith.
Here is what I use on old clock and used on my carburetor. I have a small crock pot and add a cup of ammonia a couple table spoons of Murphy Oil Soap and water. Heat that up and let it cook for a few hours until tender and clean. This will loosen up any crud and shin up the brass parts. You might still need to whack the screws with a proper size screw driver to get them out but this will clean it up. I soaked my NH for about 2 days in the good Berryman carb cleaner and it would not get all the crap loose this works great and the hardened crap came right out.
If it's a Stromberg I would be weary of any acid because of the pot metal parts inside, same with applying any heat, that stuff is easy to melt.
thank you all so much
Mark, thank you for verifying my concern on heat. I was unaware of the potential for pot metal parts inside and this is just the sort of info/warning that I was seeking BEFORE I got into trouble.
my regards to all
Berrymans is OK on pot metal, Gerald's recipe is basic, opposite of acid, but may still react with pot metal ?