I have a spare 25 engine that probably has not run in many decades, currently it is sitting on a homemade storage stand. The kid wants to try to get it up and running. We have ordered all the required parts, mostly gaskets for putting things back on like the exhaust, water inlet/outlet, starter and governor blanks.
The intention is not to rebuild it at this time, but to get his interest from talk to actual hands on. I do have most of the parts to make a rolling chassis, if he chose to to do such. Right now I just want to encourage his interest.
So, the real question is regarding the output shaft; do I need any cover plate or anything else to ensure no damage, when we try to start it up.
Thanks, in advance.
Jason, as long as the 4th main is attached properly, i don't see any problem with running it that way.
Make sure the oil is ok, install a radiator, install a timer and 4 coils and the associated wiring, a lawn mower gas tank and a battery...(hopefully it has a starter) and go for it. If it has a generator either wire it in or ground it. I do it all the time. I use an engine stand like this:
No starter! My starter, came off this engine.
I have an old radiator, but was planning to just run a garden hose connection on the inlet, and divert the outlet water to the ground.
I have a bunch of old timers, I picked out one that looks decent. Wiring will be the challenge. I don't want to steal my coil wires, I do have my old coil box, it looks good, but no clue if it is. The coils will come from my T. I am planning to setup a switch so we can run on both battery and mag.
I have an old snowblower tank, I used when getting my T, already setup with a shutoff valve, just need some more fuel line.
I have never changed the oil in it, but it is on the list. I have added a little atf, to each cylinder over the years, so it is free, I have not checked the compression yet, I need an adaptor for my compression gauge. It will be considered a wet test. Hand cranking it, with plugs in it, it feels like it has good compression.
Looking into the tranny, it has been opened at least once, the safety wire job, was really poor. The gasket for the valve cover is a piece of cardboard, seams to work.
It does have a mag oil line setup, but missing the oil line, so it will need to be fixed or capped.
He will have a bit of work to do. Now if I can get him away from the video games long enough.
I also say no problem. If you have some leakage of oil out of the 4th bearing? Good deal. :-) Mop it up.
Bolt that 4th into place and go.
I kinda started that way. Engine in a bare frame, didn't have a rear axle to plug into the power plant.
For early testing, I had a big 70's GM radiator on the side, a Honda distributor stuck out front running the wrong way, no exhaust system and it was the coolest damn thing ever.
Do it. Do it.
If it streams oil out? Problem.
It it drips? Normal.
Wishing to hear how it goes!
Aww shoot. I was typing whilst you posted.
(Message edited by Duey_C on August 25, 2017)
I used rubber fuel line. If the starter and generator are removed the openings will gave to be capped. Improvise, improvise..... use the correct timing...1243 and make sure you retard the timer for cranking and then advance it again when the engine starts. Questions? don't be afraid to ask them... improvise as needed to make it work.
I found two out of the three blank off plates, that where on my T engine.
In my small order of supplies, mostly gaskets, I ordered a bendix plate, so far the kid's adventure is costing me $30, I know that cost will rise.
Part of the fun of the build could be him finding the parts on the internet and paying for them, then him deciding what to do with the engine once the wonder factor kicks in.
Jason Make sure the front of the engine is elevated such that the angle is near what it is in the car. If not the transmission won't get enough oil.
After recently rebuilding my engine, I ran it for an hour on a stand to start it's break-in. I adjusted tap water flow to achieve an output water temperature of 180 deg. F. Engine ran great and I killed a big patch of lawn.
Make sure that the engine is bolted to the stand, and that the stand is securely strapped down to something that won't move, otherwise the vibration will cause the whole thing to dance around the floor. If there's no exhaust system and muffler, wear hearing protection. If there's no radiator, capping off the lower hose outlet and filling the jackets with water via the upper water inlet will allow you to run the engine a little longer than if it is run dry.
Be sure to take and post a video of it when you give it a try!
Parts arrived today! Hip hip hurray!
We got a fair amount done, I a hour or two. Ran into two issues so far. The engine compression is low, between 15 and 30 psi,we are hand cranking. We'll check them again later, in the meantime we added penetrating oil on the valve guides, we'll see if that helps.
Need to read the carburetor booklet, the Kingston "L" is really dirty, and we weren't able to get if fully apart. All the parts appear to be moving freely now. We need to replace both springs. I'll probably start a post after a little reading, if needed.
Still to do;
- wire up an ignition (12v and mag)
- buy some spark plugs
- change oil (that will be a pain, due to the stand)
- deal with the missing outside oil line
- clean the carb, and install.
Right now the kid is taking a break and playing with a friend who came over.
Should not trust the label on carb. It's actually a late L2. Got it mostly apart and cleaned. I could not remove the screw that holds the flapper. But we did get it apart enough to clean all the passages. After dinner we'll finish getting it back together. I hope the L an L2 bowl gasket is the same.
Hopefully after dinner, we can deal with the oils items too.
Jason, Don't let DC Voltage get into the Mag. Keep the "mag" and "bat" wires away from each other. I didn't find a need to anchor the engine but on the stand that I use it's easy to run some screws to hold it.
We are mostly ready to go. Still need to mount the fuel tank. May need a fitting to secure the fuel line to the carb. I should have something that will work.
NAPA, has spark plugs on order and should be in today. We will get some rubber fuel line at the same time.
Lastly we need to add some oil. There was not much in there. What oil there was, was thick as coal tar. Added a 1/2 gallon of Kerosene to the crank. Drained and filtered it a few times. The engine is turning over a lot easier now (no plugs). We also set the tranny for neutral.
We'll probably try firing it up later this week.
Got the engine already to go. We decided to check the spark. The coil box is bad, we had major spark jump from the plug wires to the wood. The kid thought the spark was cool.
I guess we'll be rebuilding the coil box, before proceeding.
We had to make new wood for the coil box. But we got it up and running.
This is my first ever youtube post. I see the free video editor blurred out some of the image.
Sounds good! I see you ran it with the valve chamber cover off. Did you try pushing each pedal to test the transmission function?
Mark, no we did not try pressing each peddle. I had the clutch peddle tied up for neutral. We ran out of fuel and free time after three minutes.
We did find the magneto does not work. At least two freeze plugs leak, The carb, needs a bit of work too. I saw some bubbling near the head gasket, so it must leak, or some other issue.
It runs though and Batavia good start. Cool
Should have said and that's a good start.