we might as well get it started.......
First day of spring for us so I spent the afternoon giving a full service to the T I like to drive the most.
I will spend the month of Sept. among other things, getting my recently acquired 1912 reassembled and back on the road.
Well ... the last weeks of August I got the chassis up and running after nine months of working only on the weekends and evenings. By this morning I actually have a car with the body,fenders, splash shields, running boards and headlights. I'll install the windshield this weekend along with the dashboard. I'll remove the earlier coil box with switch and install all the wiring for the switches and lights. Feels good to drive in a T again. The work I did on the body was minimal, just enough to keep it from rusting.
Mark - The car looks great! Difficult to make a recent restoration look "old" but you've done it!
I'm thinking that the photo you posted showing the
"interesting" tail light/license plate light could cause an interesting "discussion" here on the forum! On one hand, it looks like it could/should be turned 90 degrees from how you have it mounted, but then it would not be a "tail light", right? (:^) .....harold (:^)
Mark, I have that exact plate holder on my 23 but with an electric light. It came with the car and it looked original.
Harold, you may have missed it, there already has been a "discussion" of the Ford-O taillight. The bracket is Ford-O specific, and is also a "non starter" specific item. The Ford-O light and bracket are to be used with Kerosene sidelights.
have fun and be safe .....
It's 100° right now so why not take the car out for a drive, kept the speed around 30mph. After a quick trip of seven miles out and back no issues.
Began the respokeing process. Had several cracked, loose and 2 broken.
Installed window channel and safety glass in the coupe
Donnie Brown - Yup! I missed it! Thanks,....I guess that "discussion" was partly about what I was talking about above,....that it looks like the lamp should be turned 90 degrees due to smaller red lense. Still looks wrong to me, but then I guess some other folks thought so too! Thanks again Donnie,.....harold
James... just courious... are you replacing just broken and loose ones, or all?
I have a few loose spokes on one wheel, and plan on shinning them, and maybe building a wheel jig this winter... or seeing if someone in the club has a borrow- or rentabke one and rebuilding it.
My wife says that she is enjoying cleaning all the magneto coils. Guess I get to start on the carb this weekend.
Tarn-x vs Magneto Coils
While reassembling the runabout, I fixed the headlight that wouldn't stay put.
The threads were too worn to hold the nut.
So I added some steel...
...ground it approximately round...
It's not the prettiest piece of work ever, but it holds the nut good and tight.
Steve, Thanks for the tutorial on how you fixed the problem. Always enjoy your detailed, illustrated descriptions of the work you do.
Bill, is yours the Doctor's Coupe that so many seek? Hubba hubba!
I'm KIDDING of course!
Goll. Yous guys are busy!
Spoke replacement. Dennis I took the bite and bought enough to replace them all. These are the rear wheels, but in the front I plan on using the best from the rear as replacements for a few loose and broken there.
Two days into the month with our kitchen all torn apart? Nothing.
Well Duey-c, I am a physician and the coupe is mine. Other than that, I'm not opening that "can of worms"😂
Looking good William. It looks better with the Safety Glass. ;o)
Don't run the magneto down with those lights on.
James G., Where did you get the spokes, and are they Shag Bark Hickory? Thank you, Dave in Bellingham,WA
Today I installed the cover over the gas tank. I had to trim the hinges I made last Winter as they were too long. I also had to shave the cover's rear cross piece as it hit the kick panel below it.
Always some surprises.
Rich, The lights were on during the eclipse. Obviously they weren't needed in my area. Thanks for the observation.I It's been a fun project.
Finished three Model T parts today.
Finished installing replacement wiring and now have to get it running before selling. Too many projects.
Spoke replacing. David I'm not sure what kind of hickory they are but I got them from Langs. I've been stripping off 94 years of paint from the hub and other metal parts for the past few days. Slow going with air tool wire brushes. So far they have been black, then silver, then yellow, then green then several versions of red.
Nothing T related yet!
Got the 26 Sedan out to drive to work yesterday, made it half way before joining the two piece crank club.☹️
Found a nice set of kerosene lights for front of wood cab rebuild at swap meet. Finished painting a bunch of hardware for cab. Made some more metal braces for cab. Pulled the pan cover on roadster pickup an adjusted connecting rods.
Working on bringing a Jumbo Planator back to life. Very short on information. Anyone have experience building one?
Sorry to hear that Dale, after reading about Tim's adventure and now yours. I sure hope I don't join that club ! if I do, mine well be down quite a while as I try to fix it. So far though all is good, I did 50 miles in my TT. Seems to be running better and better - knock on wood :-) so far I am pretty pleased with it. If it does as good as my Runabout, I well be one happy camper.
I've been driving mine despite the 108 degrees we've been having. But now the alternator went out and the shop , after four attempts, can't seem to repair it so I am waiting for my replacement. Fortunately I have me A to drive for now but I really like driving my T.
I took time out today from other chores and reinstalled the left front fender on the 1923 touring. It had been off to have a broken bracket welded. I also wire brushed and painted some castle nuts. It's always good to have some on hand ready to use.
Bought TT with a rebiult motor so fare redone the valves ground and adjust as the heads 15 to 25 thou above the block at lowest point replaced the timing gear put full set of gasket in (only gaskets block to pan).
Got is started tommerow finish putting it back together and its only the 3rd
I started remaking my license plate holder and rear fender irons on my '25 cut off pickup yesterday. I messed up both of these when I initially made them and saw a better way to redo these pieces. Hopefully today I can get back to work on them after I do some other chores.
Decided to go outlaw on my firewall!
Chris, are they in the right "firing" order? They look dangerously backward.
A little bit subtle. It is seldom we see humor of this caliber. 0;o)
Hopefully I don't shoot myself in the foot!
Its already primed, should fire right up!
I believe the way they are installed it will back fire! With that said you are primed for a real blast!
I've been fighting a sediment bowl drip, drip, drip. At five turns in, the outlet was lined up with the fuel line to the carburetor, but it wasn't screwed in tight. Trying to turn it in tighter it was about a quarter turn short of lining up. So I ran a ½" npt tap in the hole a little bit, so when turned in tight the outlet ended up pointed in the right direction.
While I was at it I refined my fuel shut-off. There are two standard shut offs at the carburetor, and I don't like either one. A ball valve, like plastic insulators and Phillips screws, just looks wrong on a Model T. And the brass valves sold by the parts dealers are usually so tight you need a wrench to turn them.
So I decided to make my version of the shutoff I saw on a TT. It uses the valve on the sediment bulb instead of one at the carburetor. The handle is under the driver's side running board, easy to reach but out of sight.
When the handle is down the valve is closed.
Turning the handle up opens the valve. Note that it's mounted on a piece of angle iron held by the running board bolts. No extra holes are drilled in the car for this arrangement.
A screen door spring hooked to the frame puts some tension on the shaft to keep it from turning on its own.
The business end of the thing clamps on the sediment bulb valve handle and swivels to accommodate the varying angle as it turns.
I like that big time Chris!
Had to do some switch repair today when the 24 Crappy T died on the way to retrieve the refuse receptacle.
Ya, he doubles as the garbage can puller. When I climbed the hill to grab some tools and the multimeter, you'd of thunk I'd grab a screwdriver.
Nope, back up the hill.
Several years ago, I pulled the Clum #10421 ignition/lighting switch that needs an #83 key out of the Crappy T along with the home-made tin switch mount plate and put in a correct #53 switch, proper plate and re-worked repro small amp gauge.
When I fixed this switch before install, I used super glue to hold the pins in and back plate together and to this day it is as warped as the day I put it in. Solid as heck still and this guy sits outdoors.
Found out later that super glue could well be used for this repair... :-)
Key had been real easy to turn yet very reliable until this afternoon.
Pulled just a little on the contacts and presto!
A whole passle of stuff, getting readt for the OCF....
Last was trying my hand with kitless upholstery!
Was interesting to see the tag on the inside of the seat. It had been re-apolstered by another way long time ago (hence the red buttons)... but wonder if the tag was from the factory?
Don't worry... I'm going to do what another on the forum is doing... finding some black fingernail polish that the Goths use. :-)
Bah, just tell anyone it's for Red Buttons and see who remembers! :-) Never got a dinner.
Looks good Dennis!
Ah, memories. I went to a Pacific Pioneer Broadcasters' luncheon in 1976 and Red did that routine. Very funny.
Red Buttons.. wow... haven't seen one of his skits in eons!!
I loved Red Buttons! Thanks for reminding me!
I decided to disassemble the standard Ford rear axle that came out of Betsy, my 1924 cut-off touring (I broke an axle shaft on the standard rear end a few months ago). Betsy is now running a Ruckstell that I bought and built up a few years ago.
It has bronze thrust washers. The locating pins in the housings for the steel washers are all present and look good.
There was minimal side play of the axles in the housing, and the two fiber spacer washers look good. I have a new bronze spacer washer that I may install anyway.
The axle side gears and spider gears look good. The spider shafts fit snugly in the pockets of the housing halves.
The inner Hyatt bearings and sleeves look good (I plan to replace the outer sleeves and install my best original Ford used Hyatts in the outers).
The ring gear teeth are pitted and have a raised lip at the heel. I have a new ring gear to install.
The ring gear bolts were wired in pairs with dead soft iron wire wrapped only halfway around the bolt heads (not twisted) - that said, none of them were loose.
The axles had accessory Woodworth "springs" on them, purportedly to help direct oil from the axle tubes back into the center section. I plan to leave them off for the rebuild.
The inner seals were the older leather ones with the spring steel "fingers" on one side and a spring steel plain washer on the other side. The one axle broke exactly at the inner seal location. I plan to replace the leather seals with the modern neoprene seals.
I'm going to throw away both old axle shafts and install new ones from Chaffin's.
I was hoping not to have to tear into the driveshaft, but based on the condition of the ring gear I'll probably have to replace the pinion and go through the whole driveshaft as well.
When I return from the OCF, I hope to get three guys over here to help me lower my '13 roadster body on to the chassis. It's been just over a year.
We purchased a '20 TT, wood cab, dump, grain bed truck some time ago. I drove to IL., picked it up, and brought it home, over the Labor Day weekend.
My wife and I cleaned out the bed, removed the upper side boards, front bed boards, and tail gate. We also removed the driver's door which still has original glass in it. The sills had failed allowing the cab to sag. We removed the sills, sill supports, and broken frame mount brackets. Photographed everything for future rebuild/restoration.
The entire wood package is nearly sawdust. It is so dried out and rotten. On top of that, we found carpenter ants calling the bed home. Diatomaceous earth and disassembly of the bed may be the answer. I'll check all the bed floor boards we removed to see if there are any ants, alive or dead. Luckily, not a big colony. The neighbors probably think I'm crazy; diatomaceous earth spread everywhere. Looks like it snowed in September.
I believe this may be a Martin Parry cab. In reading other threads here, the description fits. I will have to do more research to be sure one way or the other. I sure do like the build and looks of the cab. The truck has a cable bed dump mechanism. I have never seen one. Looking forward to restoring that to working order.
Good Luck to you All,
Terry, you didn't take enough pictures. How do I know this? There's always something you miss. Always. VOE.
Mark, don't throw away the old axle shafts. Use them for circus tent pegs. Seriously, they do sometimes come in handy for other projects.
Found a emergency brake assembly for my very new to me 26 coupe. No other progress on the T s. Spent all weekend on a local model A tour.Big fun..
Here are some pics from Betsy's standard rear axle teardown. I plan to chop the old axles short to make pressing off the side gears easier. Steve, if you want the pieces of the old shafts, you're welcome to them, I can bring them with me to Hershey if you want.
Old axles are nice for rolling heavy machines across the shop.
Mark, before you get the new axles stabbed in place, be sure and check the width of the keyseats / fit of the keys. Recently discussed here:
Thanks for the tip, Walter!
Walter - With the gear left on, old axles also make great tent stakes for circus tents too! (:^)
Well, I don't remember who mentioned it, but whoever said that a 12 ton press wouldn't be enough to get the side gears off of the axle shafts was half right!
I managed to press the gear off of one shaft, but the other one won't budge, even with (minor from a propane torch) heat applied while under full press.
I released the pressure and have it soaking in penetrating oil, then I will try one more time before taking it to a machine shop with a bigger press.
After two years, got the 1920 Model T Roadster registered.
Process was smooth (got a bit hung up on a VIN etching I had to provide).
All in all, a 20 minute process.
Tip to be learned - There's the scary stuff that appears on the Pennsylvania DOT website, then there is the real world where things get done. Since Pennsylvania is a state that allows private vendors to handle DMV matters, these ladies made it a lot easier than what I was anticipating.
Ready to roll Saturday!
Took it to the ocean and had a blast with my friends!
Mark Strange, just an idea . If you can give it an impact blow while under pressure that might just be enough to break it loose. Joe
Thanks, Joseph. It's at a local machine shop now, they have a 50 ton press. Expecting a call to pick it up today.
Replaced the choke spring in the NH
Andy had his original plate glass in the windshield frames so I went to a local glass shop today and got new glass
at first he said he didn't have any of the clear laminated glass and probably wouldn't get any more until after IRMA passed I was going to leave the old glass with him and just have him cut the glass when it came in.When he saw how small the glass was he still didn't have any clear laminate but said I could look through his scrap and see if I could come up with some that could be cut. I found 2 pieces and he again wanted me to know that in a 25 it should be clear I told him I wasn't going for a stynoski (sp) award so Andy has green safety glass now...
I drove it from it's temporary old home in Vancouver WA to it's new home in OR. About an hour and a half drive and enjoyed every minute of it. So did Lizzy. It had been a long rest.
Made a thing to suspend parts needing primer and paint, then applied primer and paint to said parts
Last minute visor replacement.
See you at OCF tomorrow!
Adjusted the connecting rod bearings. Tried Plastigauge first and then tried the news paper method. News paper is the only way to go!
Took my T to the local labor day parade. Lots of fun!!
Took my T to the local labor day parade. Lots of fun!!
Still having trouble posting larger sized photos. Very frustrating.
What is the newspaper method on rods?
I read a few post like this one.
Cut strips of news paper and placed on the bearing then tighten up. If it cranks it is to loose if you can not crank it it is just right.
Worked well for me. There are other post with the same method. Just remove a little off the shim and retest.
"Use a wide flat file placed on the bench and then move the cap over that. To check clearance simply place a piece of newspaper between cap and crankshaft journal. Tighten it up. If you can turn the crank it's too loose & you need to file more.
Soon as you've tightened the bearing to where the crank can't be turned with the newspaper in there it's about right. It should then turn freely with the newspaper removed.
It is possible after some experience to just set the clearance by feel. "
Arrived at OCF! Driving the streets of greenfield village.went to mixer and parked by my buddy's 25 Dodge. Oh what fun.
Well I have one wheel re wooded. Took me 4 days of assembling and disassembling, lots of sanding to get it done. Ugh, now I see why people pay to have someone else do this. Getting the wobble out was the hardest part. Still has about 1/8th of an inch but the demountable rims can hide that.
Testing the limits of endurance!
the last time I went to a car show I overheard a judge say that model T's didn't have any bling,so since Andy had most of the paint missing from his timer I decided to polish it rather than repaint, did I go too far?
Chased T's on tour this morning and took lots o pics this afternoon .
Pics on thread "Hillbilly Tour Day 4.
John That looks suspiciously like my profile pic! If you get them to move let me know
I had to go look and I agree! Ever sell your Airstream?
I sold a boat (Boston Whaler) some years ago to make parking room for another Model T.
Broke two piece valve in # 3 cylinder. Went through piston. Now rebuilding motor
John Yes we sold it about 3 years ago. Hated to see it go but I needed some room.
Have gotten this far on the old girl. Body frame pieces are ash, flooring is white oak. The girl was a complete basket case when I started. By using the forum, both club magazines and Ford manuals, I'm just starting on the electrical, getting ready to run continuity on the generator armature.
Had to take my new Chaffin rear axle shafts to the machine shop so that they could finish pressing on the side gears with their 30 ton press. My wimpy 12 ton only got them about 80% on before it ran out of oomph.
Got Frederick cleaned up some and took a short drive; polishing brass is next.
I finished making my new set of fender irons for my cut off touring pickup. I had to do this because it was pointed out to me that I had mounted the rear fender to low. I am just about now able to line most of the fender back up with the splash pan now that it is closer to where it is supposed to be.
Got it Insured...Woohoo!
None of you know how great a thing that is to me. My car has NEVER been insured...EVER. And I've had this car since 1978. Registered YES, but insured NO...whee!
Next month, she gets her registration reinstated and then she's free and clear to navigate the streets around here and elsewhere once more.
Very cool.. Hope it does good on its first ride.
I did rebuild the carb on my 26 roadster pickup. Starts easy runs great. Getting ready to change the fenders before it gets cold out. It's no beauty queen but the have been
But they have been repaired and need some paint and bolted on. Hope to paint them in the next couple of weeks.
Fixed a sediment bulb leak and...
...got a surprise car wash on the way home from town.
Left before daybreak . After breakfast, I drove to mill and picked up 300 lbs of horse feed. Had a nice early morning drive. Stopped for another photo.
Disassembled starter with wife.
Finished the rebuild of Betsy's original Ford rear axle assembly (the one that snapped an axle shaft a few months ago). It's now in storage in the basement as a ready spare.
Disassembled carburetor (Kingston L4) and found it not rebuildable. Tabs that hold float pin disintegrated.
When Andy came to me he only had 1 bolt holding his coil box in place, so I made some more.
The one in the middle is the original the one on the right is how they look when they come from homer's place (head is too wide to allow bolt to enter hole on side of coil box. The one on the left is one of the 4 I modified to work.
My roadster's mechanical horn is sidelined by missing parts, so I'm getting a mag horn ready to use as a replacement until it's fixed.
I aim to do some overnight trips, so today I figured out how to stow a tent, sleeping bag, and foam mat on the running board.
Hey Steve, i see you have the Runabout back on the road, how's she running after the Trans repair?
......not only "running", but the tires are still white!
Yep, running OK. So far the transmission works the way it should. A cold start still takes a lot of cranking. I cleaned the plugs and checked the gap, but that wasn't it. I may try a carburetor switch and see if that makes any difference.
I changed the packing nut exhaust manifold and exhaust system and now the intake leaks.... I am too excited I guess..............
I drove mine.
Went on a picnic with Wilma.
Replaced a leaking head gasket. The head was warped and required fifteen thousands to be removed. That was all straightforward.
While the coolant was out, I decided to remove the radiator to flush it and to properly mount it. Some previous owner had it wrong: a spring on top of the upper thimble and not within the frame rail. This had bugged me since I acquired the car.
Well, it was all wrong because someone, likely the fellow who built this car from floor sweepings and debris found on the fence line, used odd ball bolts and nuts to fasten the fender irons to the frame. The heads were on the outside and the too long bolts with their 5/8 SQUARE nuts left no room for the springs and the nut plates. Grrr.
Also discovered that the front crossmember has been replaced and held with bolts. Boo-hiss. Well, that will be a job for another time.
With the radiator off it was convenient to clean the timer and confirm the timing.
Replaced the hand crank bushing in the crankcase snout. Correctly installed the out of position hand crank spring.
The radiator apron was an Improved Car style. It was in bad shape, didn't fit well at all and, because it was so mangled it made hand cranking just about impossible. I had been fortunate to come across a correct apron in rather good condition, so that went on.
Discovered that the Brassworks high radiator is lacking the small brackets to which the radiator shell is secured. Dang.
Before the radiator went back on I spent a few minutes with a rag wiping the front of the engine and policing the area.
The routine head gasket replacement grew because of "mission creep" and then fell down a rabbit hole. The car is back together and runs well. It now is a joy to hand crank. The radiator mounts no longer scream at me when I walk by. Yes, I will be retorquing the head after heating and cooling cycles.
Good luck with your project, Bill
Well, it won't paint itself ! After cleaning out and sealing the cowl tank, time to get the outside painting prepped. Hand sanded very thing ,extra work on the areas that are seen. Priming tomorrow then paint the following day.
I got my second spring-loaded ball socket for the drag link from Lang's today. Will install it this week. I'm hopeing that the slop from the T's steering will be gone when I replace it.
Today I assembled the rear end and driveshaft assembly for a 1924 C-Cab TT. The purpose was for a fit up of the drive shaft for use with a Warford. When I get the engine and the Warford installed on the frame I will still need to locate the universal joint pin location on the shortened drive shaft. The torque tube has an original slide-on fitting for fit up which has a limited amount of length adjustment, but the drive shaft was left un-drilled. Sooo, when assembled, the drive shaft will be marked as to the needed location of the universal joint pin location and then totally dissembled to drill the necessary hole. I know everything is close, but the extra effort will be worth it.
Looking good Rich
I installed the body on my car.
They look nice in progress Larry.
Haven't done much of anything to the '25 "beater" coupe other than some maintenance in the last couple of years other than driving it on some short drives around town, due to a lot of family and personal health issues. I have been able to collect a lot of parts that it needs though in the last few years, thanks to this forum and some very good friends. We have a prefab garage coming soon so that we can start working on it soon. Dave
Got me a co-pilot/navigator for Halloween night...course he's probably useless for any of that, but he can sit in the car nicely and look like he's out for a wild ride.
I'm jealous, the skelly stands 5 ft tall and as you can see fits perfectly in the car with plenty of leg room t'boot
...even if he had 4 inches of padding all round him he's still fit in there better than I do...did I mention I'm jealous? Now if he could only drive, I could sit in the back (where I do fit).
I started to install the interior in my coupe
Is that the original owner? Is his name T- bones? Pretty cool.
Martin, I thought that was you waiting on parts.
Primed the tank and will paint this afternoon after 24hr primer cure. Used Rustoleum Rust Reformer.
Martynn Vowell, looks good
Painted tank as promised, been real humid here so I'll let it dry for a couple of days and give it another lite coat.
Blew the sediment bowl out on the '14 yesterday so I made it take me to the barber shop this morning. I flush the sediment bowl out the drain valve about every 8-900 miles to clear the brass screen of small deposits it catches. The 4-ball K usually lets me know if I wait too many miles. I left in the dark so I lit it up.
I can't seem to take good photos as most folks and end up with spots for a picture. Twilight by the time I got back. Birdbath under the car is a neighbor's sprinkler system.
Retired now and try to make most of the errands in the T's or V8.
Ken in Texas
Built my tool access door the my 1910 T!
With a battery charger, a mag horn, and a speedometer light in addition to the headlights and the wire from the mag post, my runabout had too many wires attached to the mag terminal on the coil box. They just didn't want to stay put. So I added another terminal on the firewall. The coil box terminal has the mag post wire, the headlights, and a third wire going to the spare terminal, which has the battery charger and speedometer light and horn.
My other main project was straightening an exhaust manifold to use on my touring car. Having done it successfully this time, I updated the web page about it. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG82.html
I got a camera this afternoon, so here's the firewall with the extra terminal.
Been visiting this site since 1999 with not many postings except recently and you do yourself justice for, if I get it right, "a retired lazy bum". You come up with, as Steve McQueen says in the Great Escape, "good stuff".
Oops! My bad! Steve McQueen did not say that it was said to him. "Good Stuff Hilts". Anyway, "Good Stuff Steve".
Today I finished a sheet metal brake to make seams for some top iron sleeves. For years I have simply clamped sheet metal between two pieces of steel or wood and hammered them over 90 degrees or whatever. The hammering is too severe for the short lip required here. I screwed and pinned the ends rather that welding.
Drove it some more......had a great drive and picnic.
Of course I spent time greasing and oiling and checking tire pressure, etc. Made for a trouble free trip.
Sanded,dusted,wiped down interior of cowl, shot some paint for rust abatement, mounted firewall pads. Sanded repainted tank straps.