I think this is called the inner ball bearing race, and it's pressed on the one piece spindle for my 1910. It looks to have some damage, but I'm not sure if it's still usable or should be replaced. I also see some wear on the threads that need to be addressed. If the race needs to be replaced, where in the world do you find an NOS or repro inner race and how to you remove/install one? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
The ball bearing races haven't been made for a very long time and are hard to find items. I wouldn't use that race.. You can use the later tapered roller bearing style that's readily available but since the pre 19 spindles are slightly shorter you may have to use the expensive special thinner outer washers from Lang's - or just grind the nut a little to get the cotter pin in place.
Now how to get the old race off?
I would use some heat but carefully not to harm the spindle - and if that wasn't enough, I would weld something to it so it could be removed with a puller.
Thanks, Roger, but I was really hoping to keep the original style ball bearings instead of changing them all out. I have a complete set of NOS inner and outer bearing cups as well as the correct ball bearings for both. I just need to find that elusive inner race and figure out how to remove and install one! You're right; I think heat would probably loosen the old one.
I am thinking a die grinder with a carbide bit would do the trick. I've found reasonable good inner races on other spindles to use. Most spindles have cut outs for punching the races out so usually the replacement ones I find can be removed without damage. You have the earlier type spindles without the cut outs.
I see you have some thread damage where the washer cut into the spindle. You might consider welding or brazing the damage and rethreading. You can buy both right and left hand dies for rethreading the damaged area.
Roger is right that that cone should not be used. In fact it looks like the entire spindle is a little shaky. If it were my car I'd try to replace it, but that might be tough if you have 1-piece spindles. You may have to repair what you've got.
I'm pretty sure I have a NOS or at least a very good used cone. I'll go down into the vault later today; the guard's off for the long weekend.
Thanks, R.V., that would be great! I think I'll take the one piece spindle to my machinist and see if he can weld up and re-thread the spindle; they are rather hard to find.
In those first two photos it almost looks like the spindle itself has been welded before. Inspect all of that carefully after the race is removed and get the whole thing magnafluxed.
If that spindle has been broken in two and put back together, that takes expert work to pull that off correctly and what's there now doesn't look like the work of an expert.
If it has been put back together and no cracks show, you still don't know what's going on there in terms of penetration or how the joint was made.
Don Lang has NOS cups and races. They have some surface rust, but should clean up. I would definitely have that spindle repaired.
I think i would take it to a machine shop and have the race taken off and also the poor looking weld.I think you should also have the NOS cups and races to be used in hand first.I think i should stop greasing and start looking at mine!!
I was able to remove the old race with some heat, and after it cooled I cleaned it up and it appears to me that it wasn't a complete break that was mended, since the opposite side isn't welded and shows no sign of breakage. Maybe it was a sloppy weld up of a worn bearing area?
Still doesn't look so good to me. I'd get another spindle. Good used ones aren't expensive and are easy to come by!
I wouldn't take a chance on a spindle. If it breaks while driving, you are going to have a seriously bad day!
One piece drivers side spindle; I thought they were kind of hard to find?
Drop a line to Glen Chaffin or Dennis Michaud.
I would bet that either one would have a spindle for you.
At the very least it ought to have that crummy weld repair excavated and redone correctly, then after all that, make sure the two bearing surfaces are still concentric. Also, it still ought to be magnafluxed.
Anyone have a contact for Dennis Michaud? I have Glen's contact info.
Walter, do you know who does the Magnaflux testing?
Any good machine shop can magnaflux
David is right. Not all "job shop" type machine shops do it, but almost any engine rebuilding machine shop does.
The axle appears to be a victim of a failed bearing, where it was completely destroyed and the hub was running on the axle and cut a big grove in it, then somebody replaced the missing metal. With a proper functioning inner bearing I think the axle is sufficiently strong and safe. It would take a major pot hole or strike off a curb to damage it. Before it would break, the tire or rim would give in first. Nevertheless I would still be looking for a newer one.