This one to my inexperienced eye looks almost usable.
Is there a machining measurement to ascertain this?
Please, weigh in here!
Bill.. It still needs to be re-ground and polished. On those ball bearing assemblies, if there are ANY imperfections at all, they will grind away at the balls just like grinding grit. Most folks think the solution is finding and buying NOS cups and inner races. But almost ALL OF THEM are no good to use without grinding new surfaces and then polishing them. The ball bearings run on a single point contact, whereby timkens run on a line contact, so the weight distribution on a ball is non-existent. Therefore, every blemish the ball rolls across has a huge damaging effect.
So the only way to make sure you have a good set is to find good NOS components to start with and have all four cups and all four cones re-ground and polished. Here is what a set looks like when they are ready to roll...
Equally important to remember with ball bearings is to set them up with no play. They aren't like Timken taper rollers where you run them down and back them off a flat. GM cars that ran ball bearings on the front wheels for several decades actually had a torque spec for the spindle nut. Ford in this era simply said to run them down to where the wheel would turn freely, but to "have no play between bearing cup and cone bearing".
I have seen so many GM cars where people set them up with play and it will ruin them in very short order. I suppose since taper rollers are the dominant wheel bearing with which people are familiar, they assume all wheel bearings are set up the same, but different designs call for different procedures. Mixing ball bearings and tapers on the same spindle is bad business because there isn't a "one size fits all" answer for the proper set-up.
(Message edited by Wmh on September 04, 2017)