Hello everyone, I'm kind of considering putting together a strong terrain motor basic info would be a Sherman Surefire head a 280 lift cam shaft. What I'd like to do on the crankshaft is to buy a scat crankshaft but my choices are either converted to the model A Dimensions with inserts and run Splash or have a babbitted block with their new connecting rods with insert bearings and running the standard for Dimensions. Any thoughts and input would be grateful thank you, John
I would talk to folks that build engines and use them hard. The people at Antique Auto Ranch build and Drive in the Montana 500. There are other expert Engine builders but I would talk to ones that actually drive T's a lot first.
was doing voice to text --so excuse the typos
I have a stroked scat crank with insert bearings and a 280 stripe cam in mine. I will suggest a scat crank with stock stroke. There just doesn't seem to be a lot more power and I had to do some machining to the block. It runs great and seems to be very reliable I just wish I had gone with the stock stroke.
Spend LOTS of $$$$...
Tom Carnegie at Antique Auto Ranch in Spokane, WA.
Montana 500 engines are subjected to some of the toughest demands imaginable.
Tom builds the best Montana 500 engines.
My grandfather drove his 11 touring for years on local HCCA tours in Nebraska with a stock engine. I'm still driving that car with the same engine, ran over 300 miles at the Whitefish tour this summer, no issues.
Ford made 15 million model t engines, good enough for me.
We each have our own little recipe to keep our engines healthy for me it's keep the oil level and water level to specifications and drive reasonably.
It's just a snowball of money John. Consider what kind of performance you want in the end.
Heavy cranks only resist breaking. A long stroke crank will add cubic inches... But without more camshaft/carburetor... Nuthin!
A high compression head will draw more air... But without more camshaft/carburetor... Nuthin!
Big camshafts will change performance... But without more compression/carburetor... Will just change the RPM range.
The Montana 500 guys get good results because they have found the sweet spot where all the components of the engine work together, and there is no bottleneck where performance is restricted. Also consider the additional blueprinting of the entire chassis to prevent as much parasitic resistance as possible.
If you just want to conservatively tour your T without using low pedal in the hills, and still be "stock"... Get yourself a HC head, a straight thru NH, and a touring cam. And leave the rest simple!
If you want to get carried away and have all the bells and whistles... Get out your wallet!! And prepare to brake everything behind the motor too.
Remember... Horsepower and driveability are not the same thing.
last sentence...excellent synopsis
FWIW, Katzorke built an engine for me with an inserted A crank. He drilled the block for oil pressure. I have an electric oil pump with which I build oil pressure prior to starting the engine and when it starts the engine driven oil pump takes over and holds the pressure at 40PSI. I have a 280 cam and a Z head, and a fat intake manifold. I got the most noticeable power boost from the Z head. I consider the engine pretty trustworthy...at least as trustworthy as babbitt will allow.
The secret of any good engine rebuild is good components and precision fit. The best way to get that done is talk to an experienced rebuilder who is familiar with antique car engines (especially Model T's). The money you save over acquiring all the precision machining equipment will easily pay for itself...and you will get better results. I paid up for a SCAT standard throw splash crank, new babbit, Stipe 280 cam, bronze timing gear, and Z-head for my rebuild. The only thing I would change is skip the Z-head and get a Prus head (which I did later). Many reliable miles later I have no regrets.