Could be a long shot! However, do internal drawing exist for the KR Wilson magnet height adjustment tool?
If they do are they available and where could they be found?
Langs or Snyders sells a repop of the the KRW tool!
Also search the Forum for past post!
Yes! I am building one myself and would like to know what is inside. Why buy one, when you can make it out of stock you already have.
How many times do you use it? Matter of fact, I have all the parts done except the internals. Would like to know what is inside.
Check out this site.
ALSO: Google KR Wilson gap tool
What insides are you taking about?
There is an arm that swings around a center long enough to have it's end over the plates. A piece that comes down from the end that hold a small cap screw so you can find the low and high spots. With out the drawings to make one to speck you can make one that you can adjust the magnet height but would not be able to do the coil ring with the same tool.
The one I made I used a bad transmission main shaft cut short for my distance plate, the rear main section of the crank shaft, two 1 1/4" shaft colliers, one T connecting rod, one wrist pin, set screw and piece or rod to fit through the center of the wrist pin.
This is what I am talking about --speck sheet and/or drawings. The arm pivots in the center. The nut on the top of the cylinder is threaded on, for the sake of argument, a bolt. I am looking for what hardware is connected to this bolt enabling it to swing with out binding, like a set of bearings.
I, also, read the link provided by Steve and now your (Mark) response regarding "coil ring" and the inability to perform it's test. Why? What makes this test so critical? Aren't you looking for an even plane? You find highs and lows and adjust accordingly.
I know there are shims associated with the coil ring and when you adjust it you adjust it tight(whatever the specks are) at the top and when the engine is horizontal the weight makes up the difference. Is this the adjustment you are referring too.
Don't laugh, but, it is not about the price of the tool itself. I figured, I could build one out of stock available saving a few pennies and invest that monies elsewhere in this project.
The KRW tool has no bearing or busing on the main shaft, it's metal on metal. I suggest if you need to ask the question about setting up the coil ring and magnets you may not understand how the KRW tool is used. There is good info in the service manual that covers it's use for setting both the magnet height and for quick setting of the mag coil ring to get the distance set between the two. The green or black covered T repair bible is what I am talking about.
To add to this, the mag coil ring has an off set in distance, greater at the bottom then top, it's done this way because the frame which the coils are mounted on is not real strong and good magnets tend to pull the bottom half of the frame to them not because of weight. There is more to this job them just getting the two surfaces level.
In addition to the Service Manual, the clubs books both the Engine or Transmission books should also cover this job.
I should add, if you are reusing the original aluminum risers under the magnets, forgo the hitting with a hammer to adjust height. The material at this point if well aged and fractures very easily. Fractured risers = the possibility of magnets coming out thru the hogs head. Shimming the low ones to match the height of the tall ones is best. While it's best to have them all the same height, being off a few thousands will be ok.
Right ! I have those books, both copies and the club books too. At the present time, I am interested in building this tool.
As my dad said to me, "you know enough to be dangerous". There is some truth to this statement when it comes to the Model T. and it's relation to the sum of it's parts versus knowledge as it pertains to results ultimately achieved.
It's my nature to build things. I just want to build one.
It took me 3 months from conception to final product to built a gas pedal for a super-modified-winged race car for a friend who lost his leg from the knee down. Here too I used (2)bearings, mounted on rails, mounted to a platform, and an adjustable pedal. So, to move the car forward all he had to do is slide his foot. He could not articulate his ankle because he did not have one!
And, thank you for the answer of it being medal to metal it helps a lot! You are right! Do not know completely how this tool works. But, I will!