I'm so impress about the tool I bought at Lang's. I restore all my wheels and have huge issue with the thread. This fantastic Tool work perfectly and I was able to arrange the thread of the hub in the goal to use hub cap again. I was very anxious to have no choice to buy new hubs...
thanks for the report on this tool...good to hear you had good results.
I purchased this tool 3 years ago and found it to be too small to ever go on any hub including brand new ones with perfect threads. It is now a paperweight...I suppose I should have exchanged it at the time but didn't...oh well.
Hi Scott, they probably improve the tool or maybe you have a defective one unfortunately...
I think mine was a complete one-off as it was otherwise a very nicely made tool...I don't really know if it is too small or slightly "squashed" prior to heat treat (I've never done a TIR on the OD). Those things happen, and like I said, I should have exchanged it right away, but too much time has passed for that, in my opinion. It is marked and bruised from trying to use it and subsequent storage. It is very heavy, as you know, and works perfectly in my shop keeping paper from blowing away!
My dad taught me how to make a die out of any nut...you file three grooves with a triangle file across the threads clear through to them in three places, then use it like any die. You have to go careful because most typically nuts aren't hardened steel, but it does work, I've done it a lot on my T.
I bought an old steel hub cap and did the same thing to it. Works just like a threading die and cleans up the threads nicely...and it's a lot cheaper than that tool too.
Stevens made a special tool for this purpose.
The problem with buggered up Model T hubcap threads is it usually occurs on the outside end of the threads so a die is hard to get started.
The Stevens tool allows you to start the clam shell die near the end of the threads which are usually good and back it off onto the damaged threads. In my view this is one of the better Model T tools you can have.
P.S. This Stevens tool is being reproduced by Jack Putnam.
has he completed any yet?
Checked two weeks ago and he is still waiting for final machining.
I asked to be placed on the list for the first batch and not at all concerned about Jack's work product.
Please forgive me for asking, but does anybody else see a possible problem with this new wheel? Perhaps it is only an optical illusion in the photo. The dish of the wheel appears to be the opposite of what it should be for a wood felloe wheel. This weakens the wheel to side loads. Either it was built wrong or the hub was put in from the front side of the wheel rather than the rear. Either way it should be corrected to prevent an accident. Hopefully it is just the picture.
Automobile wheels should not have any dish only buggy or wagon wheels I learned recently from a wheel mfg. guy.
Scott C., cut your rethreading tool into three or four parts and make one like Ron P. posted. At least you can use it. I think it would more useful to be able to use it as Ron described anyway. Most buggered threads on anything are usually straightened up easier by starting on the inside and working out. It's a shame rethreading dies aren't made that way. I have made them that way with dies for "normal" bolts and threaded rod ends. The gaps in them work like a die allowing the cuttings to work out. JMHO Dave
I use my home made thread repair tool.
My intention was to point out a potential safety hazard.
However, wood felloe wheels most certainly should have dish in them.
Without dish and or reversed dish, like this wheel, makes a wood felloe wheel weak to side load. On a hard turn there is potential for collapse.
Ford steel felloe wheels have little or no dish, however other steel felloe wheels can have some dish. Having taken apart and rebuilt thousands of automobile wheels over the last 37 years has shown me that this is the case.
So if your guy was talking about steel felloe wheels, he is partially correct but wrong concerning wood felloe automobile wheels.
Nice job Toon!
I didn't know a Stevens tool exist. I learning so many things on MTFCA Forum and I appreciate it.
Toon I've got the welder out now- thanks for the heads up on your tool fabrication! Gary
Awesome idea! Looks like something a smithy would have made back in the day to get the job done!
I had some difficulty using the "thread chase" on a hub the I have. I mentioned this to an older friend who has a way of fixing everything. I could not get the chase to start correctly. He solved that problem by putting the chase in a vice and setting the wheel onto it. The added weight and the ability to level the wheel while turning it slowly back and forth slowly solved the problem.
"NOTHING STOPS A TOON"
Great job Mr. Toon.
Your craftsmanship is amazing.