My name is Fred. I am 32, French and live in USA.
I just bought my first Model T last month.
This car was an old dream for me !
My Model T is a Touring from 1924.
The car is in pretty good shape. Body and frame not rusty. Mechanic seams ok and the car was running. But I need your help for 2 topics.
I am new for Model T, so I need to learn lots of things ! :-)
First topic: spark linked to the switch
When I turn the key on the switch, sometimes I have a spark buzz and sometimes I don't; depending on the engine position.
I checked several engine position and each of the 4 coils gives a spark but my concern, my question is:
Why I don't have a spark buzz every time when I turn the key ? Is it normal ? if not, what I need to do ? or check or clean ?
the commutator maybe ?
Second topic: my starter
When I was trying to start, I heard a "kling" sound. I opened the bendix cover and I discovered that the bolt was removed and damaged.
I remove the spring. The spring is ok but the second bolt is damaged too.
But my biggest problem on the starter is:
the drive head is completely stucked and I cannot removed it. I tried with a gear puller, but very hard...! The drive head moved a little bit, maybe 5 mm.
I need your help and advice. Any suggestion of tools ? please
Thank you very much for your help,
Sorry to say but it looks like your spring is not okay. If you're ordering the bolt anyways, get both of them, the tab washers, and a new spring. The eyes at each end should line up with each other but yours looks like they're off by about ninety degrees. This seems to be fairly common over time but it's better to be fixed.
Thank you for your answer.
Yes, my spring is twisted. I have to change it also.
But I can't remove the head !
Any suggestion and tools I can use ?
Also, any idea about my spark buzz ?
The drive head on the end has buggered threads now, so you need to replace that.
To remove, use a puller, there is a small woodruff key in the end of the shaft that keeps the head, that could be bent now and making it hard to use a puller, but keep trying.
Install should look like this.
Interesting to know if your new T is still 6v storage battery or modified to 12v?
As for the coil buzz, that is normal. Only one coil will buzz with each rotation of the timer case contact, the contact within the case grounds the current to create the contact to fire each coil. If you slowly hand crank over the T motor, with spark lever retarded (up) and throttle closed, you can hear each individual coil buzz as you rotate the engine and the timing gear on the crank turns the camshaft which is where the timer rotor inside the timer case is mounted.
Be careful when you finally get the drive head off, it's easy to drop the little key on the end of the shaft.
Check the fit of the key in the shaft and the new drive head to make sure that the key fits the shaft well and slides easily into the drive head. Otherwise, the drive head will push the key off into the transmission pan without your noticing it (been there, done that).
Here is view of the Ford style puller used, but you can find something similar at auto parts store.
Photo from Ford Service. A reprint is avail from T vendors and is a must have for the new T owner, along with the year matching Owner's Manual.
Congrats Fred what a good lookin T
Thank you for your help with the pictures.
My T is using a 6V battery.
Yes, I will replace also the drive head because the threads are damaged.
I think I will be the full starter bendix assembly ! :-)
I already have the woodruff key so I am safe :-)
I try to find a small puller like the old Ford puller but I can't find it. I bought one but too long so it bends with the strength... I need To find a very small one and strong. Any suggestions online ?
Concerning the spark buzz, I have an additional question. I think I understand Dan what you are saying.
But is it normal that for some T engine positions, I don't have any spark buzz ?
Thank you all for your help ! :-)
Yes Fred that is completely normal.
Ok, thank you Stephen
Good news :-)
We also have the head, Bob
One thing not addressed. Did you find the bolt? If it has fallen into the crankcase, you will need to remove it or run the possibility of damaging the magneto or the transmission. Bolts such as that have a way of attraction to the magnets and with speed will fly up and possibly into the gears.
Good luck with your Ford. It looks beautiful.
Yes, I found the bolt and the lock washer, thank you Norman.
The bolt was bent and wear with cracks
Older post on pulling the Bendix head
Some have used small good quality battery terminal pullers.
The Ford tool is specific for this job
View of inside of the Ford style roller timer (their are many aftermarket styles of timer cases and rotors).
Note the 4 contacts, only buzz will occur when the rotor roller is positioned over a timer case contact. The void spaces, no contact. 4 contacts for the four-cylinder Ford.
Great looking touring and I really like the wire wheels.
Yes, thank you Dan.
I am looking for this tool
But I don't find it... :-(
Ok, thank you Dan for your answer about the time.
So, I think mine is working fine
Good news ! :-)
But I need To remove this bendix cover :-(
The original license plate from Illinois 1925 was on the car.
Cool, right ?
I also found the owner manuel from 1926 (copyright) in one antique shop for $35.
I was happy !
I finally got success to remove my starter drive head ! :-)
I bought a stronger puller. I bent the first one!
Now, I have to change the bolts, the spring, the drive head:
What do you think about the other parts ?
I cannot remove the other parts because the shaft is not smooth.
Any suggestion to clean and smooth the shaft before to put the new head ?
Get a Dremel moto-tool with a small grind wheel or sanding drum if you don't have one and dress down the shaft - you need to remove the Bendix drive to inspect as it already had some "handy" work done to it due to the brazing done on the counter balance - it would be to your benefit to look it over good !
Hi Frederic...... <wave>
You obviously got the Bendix cover off but putting it back on again is another story.
The upper screw is nearly impossible to get started.
Do yourself a favor and slot the cover so it will slide under the impossible screw.
Start that screw in the hole enough to keep it there, slide the cover under it and it's all downhill from there.
A piece of baling wire makes a good handle to hold the screws in place while you get them started.
Thank you for your messages !
This forum is awesome !
I just bought on line the parts I need.
I will do what you suggested Steve. I will change also the bendix drive after inspection.