I am fairly sure this is correct (drew it from the Ford drawings I got on line. Anyhoo, as always there could be things I overlooked too, so if you see something let me know and I can make the changes as quick as I can.
I see something already...damn I should've looked this over better.
"Not available" when I've got a part number on it, silly me.
Looks like the later style gearcase.
The riveted steering gear case used a different arrangement for holding the spark and throttle rods. They had to be slipped in from the top, hence the two piece assembly design. The later one piece version allowed for the rods to be inserted from the side.
I see the "rivets" in the bottom case.
Pay attention to the gear case that Rich posted Martin.
I thought they were the bent over kind, the drawing was pretty hard to read in that area, so I took a guess, based upon what I have seen...but yes that make sense, for it being a two piece case.
As for the case looking like a later model, it's not, it's hard to see but it's champhered on the back.
Ok, made a small correction...had to change the opening on the quadrant to fit the end of the gear case assembly...I still had it as a bit thinner than it should appear...so I opened it up some. Looks right to me now.
Martin - The throttle rod lever (part 3531) for a 1914 should have two pins.
Although the vender catalogs indicate the one pin design replaced the two pin design after 1914, I have seen 1915 and 1916 (stubby rod ends with top mounted horn button) steering columns still having the two pin throttle rod lever.
You might also want to smooth out the ends of the spark and throttle rods to show the long taper to the flattened ends.
I appreciate your excellent work and please take my suggestions in the spirit of one person's observations. Hopefully others will pipe in and add their experience.
Rich, there are two pins on the throttle lever, I just placed the call out on one, thought that it would be evident that the other one was the same number...like with the throttle and spark rods, I only call out one of the rods since they're sold as a pair.
On the spark and throttle rods, the tapered spoon ends is much longer than for the later models, but they do dip in a bit just before the spoon end, sooo are you saying that the spoons are even longer than I've got them now?
I am in awe of the computer skills necessary to produce these drawings. I can barely manage to find the "ON" button on my own machine.
One small suggestion: you might put "Not Available New" on the parts to which it applies rather than simply "Not Available."
I see your two pins on the throttle lever - my apologies for missing them on first viewing! For the tapered control levers, your drawing seems to show a pinch towards the ends rather than the near steady widening I'm used to seeing. This pic from a 1915 steering wheel assembly has the typical shape that would also be appropriate for a 1914 as well.
My inspection of tiny details might not be within the scope or intent of the project and I can certainly be called out as incorrect myself, so please don't let me hold you up on your fine work.
Wooo, your right Rich, after consulting the drawing again I see they do look like yours, my apologies. ok, I'll change it.
The 1914 steering column used the 4:1 gears. The 5:1 gears were introduced with the balloon tires in 1925. Can 5:1 gears be put in a 1914 column?
I know after 1921 columns included a 45 degree arc-shaped groove (each direction) that a long steering gear pin rode in as a stop. In 1922 it was increased to 51 degrees (each direction), then a number of times thereafter. A post 1925 (5:1) steering gears (with the long pin) needs to have a 5:1 gear case with the longer groove (60 degrees each direction) for the stop to work properly.
: ^ )
I know about the ratio's but the vendor offerings are both 4:1 and 5:1 and oversized for all years. The only steering shaft that's offered is the 5:1 shaft. On the 21-25 drawing I have that grove in the gear case, but on this one I didn't see it, so if there is one it is so small as not to be seen at this angle.
This is a cross section from the drawing I used.
The drawing of the later style 3505 is dated 1913 by Ford.
The 3505 got a small 6-32 screw to keep it from unwinding . Not sure the date of that.
Since 5:1 ratio's were not available for 1914, I took those numbers off. Also had to relabel the steering shaft as "Not Available from Vendor" because it isn't...the 5:1 is, but not a 4:1...Although the vendors do offer a kit 3516ES (Langs), T3516 (Snyder's) for years 1912-1927...which is basically the 26-27 5:1 steering shaft with 25-27 steering pinion and gears...which would make your 1914 a 5:1, which would make it easier to turn the bloody wheels with a 14" steering wheel.
Noticed something amiss, hadn't put the part number on the gear cap, also moved the lock screw out a bit so as to make easier to see.
The piece of the drawing I posted was one of the drawings used to build the T-100's...so I figured the drawing is probably the closest to an being accurate 1914 as you can get.
I usually make one of these especially if I've got a drawing to work from...but this time I didn't. And of course didn't see some things I should've seen and other things I totally went with something newer than what was presented in the drawing...thank you all for your commentary, and help...but now I've run into another quandary...do I draw it like what you can get from the vendors? Or do I draw like the Ford drawing has it?
I decided to go as Ford has it drawn, because as far as I know this IS how a 1914 steering column assembly actually looks.
The thing that is different than what I've drawn before is that the pinion shaft is not tapered, it's straight and has two bar keys in it for the Steering wheel spider...now I'm not sure if the spider has to slots or just one, but I'm thinking that it has two.
This is how the drawing actually had the components.
I had to make a color cross section to see some of this, the lines can get a might muddy at times and cross hatching can sometimes get quite confusing too.
Also notice that pinion shaft is bushed, as is the other side for the cap...these two bushings as far as I know are not sold by any of the vendors, so I gave the the number I got off the Ford drawing and have notated as such on the drawing...also I've placed a "Note" at the bottom to clarify that these numbers can't be used with vendors since they itemized numbers off the Ford drawing.
The only one I didn't really have a number for was the steering housing...it is made of many different components and to call out this part I'd have to stack those numbers, but since those numbers are only itemized list numbers off a bill of materials, their Factory number isn't represented, nor is the vendor number, and it all probability it was never intended to be available as a parted item, but only as an assembly.
Correction...the pins that hold the quadrant, tube and gear box housing together were missing.
Your 3530 E spark control lever is upside down? It's rather hard to figure out though, but when the steering column is in the car, the flat spot with the hole for the commutator rod is horizontal. The later ones for the non-swivel rods were straight, and when on the car are at about a 30 degree angle.
Larry, is this correct?
I'm not Larry, but I can answer.
The control rod is wrong. It is too short.
Keith, I'm not sure of what you mean, what part of rod is short?
Ok, got another correction here...
Things work a bit slowly, but I finally got it...it's two pieces and has to be shown apart if the rods out show apart from it.
Now, it's hard to show length on such a drawing, so I break it in several places allowing for the discrepancy in lengths.
And do I have the throttle lever and spark lever in the wrong positions? I'm not sure where they are supposed to go.
Good job Mart. You are a Wurlitzer
Newest version of the 1914 Steering Column Assembly
Forgot the part number.