Trying to figure out exactly were the water is coming from. Is there a reason it could be coming from the pan gasket as it appears? The water is clear and there is no water in the oil. I am stumped.
That is scary. Open the upper oil pit cock to check for water.
It could be a major malfunction.
Opened up both petcocks. Nothing came from the top, pure oil from the bottom. No water in the oil. It may be traveling from somewhere, but where? I may take off the generator and get a clearer view. Just trying to find out if it looks familiar to anyone.
I really doubt it's even possible for water that has entered the crank case / pan to exit at that point. Suspect areas would be the "freeze plugs" on the block behind the manifolds, the head gasket, and the water outlet connection from the head, and its hose. Like a leaky roof, drips and dribbles can run quite a distance from the actual leak, following "seams" or sharp edges.
Having to resize the pictures makes it hard to see how it looks. I know likely spots are the freeze plugs and head gasket, but I can't see where it is traveling down the block. Is there a diagram of the water flow areas of the engine? I am hoping at worst all I have to do is replace the head gasket.
I cannot imagine a blown head gasket would leak that much water that quickly under any circumstances (and now just deleted a ton of comments since I realize that Rich already stated everything I was going to post)
To ad to Rich's comment, the water outlet at the front of the head is notorious for having deep rust pits which often defy one's attempts to seal no matter how tight the hose clamp is.
I am betting that this is going to be not a big deal.
Rich, and Scott - I will check that out tomorrow. It scared me to death until I realized the oil was fine.
I had a similar water leak. Turns out the upper hose was leaking and traveling down front of engine and dripping off the front of pan. I did not find it till I seen the rust stain. The water would only leak until the level of the leaking hose. Hope you have my luck.
Drive safe and often
Always look up high first. So, head gasket top radiator hose or as in my case it was coming from two of the manifold studs. On investigation the threaded holes went into the water jacket. I took the "belt and braces" approach and sealed the thread with liquid thread tape plus used a flat washer with a o ring against the side of the block. I added more thread to the stud and added a nut to load the washer and squeeze the oring against the block. Problem gone.
Alan in Western Australia
Use your bare hand and start at the radiator, the upper hose, the water outlet, the gasket where the water outlet is attached to the head, the head gasket, the freeze plug, the water jacket above the valve cover, the bottom of the valve cover. Anywhere it feels wet is a place where your leak could be. The crankcase gasket is not a place where water would leak.
Most of the above are gasket or hose connections or freeze plugs. However a head or the water jacket leak could be caused by a crack.
If it's dripping from behind the starter its got to be coming from the hose connection on the block or a cracked block but that should be pretty easy to spot. Good luck, Don.
Terry, like others have said, with that amount of water its probably something obvious that has rusted out. Here's a pic of the freeze plug locations in case you didn't know where they were located. Best of luck, and let us know what you find.
Center freeze plug would be my guess.
Correction. Front freeze plug.
Had another set of eyes over here today and seems consensus is the front freeze plug. Will the exhaust need to come off to move the manifold enough to do this or will I have enough room with it attached?
minimal annoyance and cost at replacing manifold gaskets will be paid back with interest and ease of plug replacement.
Treat yourself to a quality set of gaskets and don't look back.
You may even be pleasantly surprised to find the car runs better as an awful lot of "as found" Ts have intake leaks and owners don't know any better and just live with it.
Freeze plug was my guess also and the best thing you could find and not a crack. If you want to do this once and be done take 3 nickel coins (hopefully you have a coin shop where you can buy the year of your car for a couple of bucks) and dress one side with a file at about a 45 degree angle. Next put the coin in a socket with the dressed edge up and put a ball peed hammer on the coin and smack it with another hammer (or use a carriage bolt as nobody will like me telling you to hit a hammer with a hammer) to dish it. Put a little sealer around the block hole and place the coin in then place your socket extension on the center and seat it. The extension will expand the dished coin and this fix is over and will never have to be done again.
I don't use steel or brass soft plugs anymore...a nickel is cheap but for me I don't have to ever do it again. New gaskets at the same time is also a good idea.