Model T spray needle resurface jig info needed

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Model T spray needle resurface jig info needed
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Frost on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 10:03 pm:

After watching Steve's U Tube video on how to clean up a spray needle, I'd like to give it a try. My question is, on the wooden block "holder", does anyone know what the angle of the 2x4 should be cut at? Thanks, Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John T. Tannehill III, Hot Coffee, MS on Saturday, September 23, 2017 - 10:51 pm:

That's a great question!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 02:28 am:

I didn't measure the angle. I just cut it to match the shape of the needle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Frost on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 07:20 am:

Maybe I'm over thinking this but, the taper on the needle seems to be important. To much/ little angle, and the adjustment would be way off? As this is my first Model T carb rebuild, I'd like to get it right. Thanks, Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Sims--Reed City,Mich. on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 07:47 am:

A short stubby angle will make the adjustments very sensitive but a long taper just means more turns needed to fine tune the mixture. Use the long taper and you should be happy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger - Wyoming on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 09:38 am:

Dave

don't overthink or lose sleep on this. Follow Steve's lead on this.

You want to end up with no ridge or ring on the needle, and a sharp round hole in the jet (purchase a new one as they're cheap).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Frost on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:23 am:

Thanks everyone. Replaced: spray nozzle, fuel valve, choke and throttle plates, and gaskets. Have a swivel top needle that is worn but will work with a little attention. My build is 70 miles away. Been bringing parts home to refurbish during the week. My wall of finished parts is growing and my stash of parts needing attention is getting smaller. Waiting on cool weather to start the rearend, then the engine. I appreciate the replies, and I'm sure more questions will need to be answered. Thanks again, Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:23 am:

No measuring needed. Make a line on paper. Lay the needle shaft on the line. Lay a ruler across the line, matching the angle of the needle point. Make a line along the ruler. There's your angle. Cut it out and use it to mark the angle on your block. Cut the block and drill the hole parallel to the bottom of the block. Done.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:45 am:

After dressing that inlet needle don't forget to mate it with the seat by tapping it with a small tool and hammer. That's the way to get best surface fit of the tapers, for secure seating. Fig. in Service Page



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:49 am:

Know this thread is on the longer spray needle, and that can't be seated with hammer, but thought the importance of the stubby float inlet needle seating is an add to this thread. That needle is often rough on its taper even when new and needs the manual seating method.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:51 am:

Paragraph 884 and Figure 434 are for the inlet needle. Don't try to tap the threaded spray needle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 10:53 am:

Simultaneous typing. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Frost on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 11:10 am:

Placed an order for carb parts, requested the original style and the rubber tipped fuel valve was shipped. Such is life. Don't think tapping on the rubber tipped valve is needed?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rich Bingham on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 11:19 am:

Nope. Sometimes these stick. You may want to hold out for a metal one, but it will likely need to be polished. Mine have come "rough 'n' ready" - obvious tool marks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 08:50 pm:

The steel needles are no longer being made.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Monday, September 25, 2017 - 04:47 am:

I installed a Viton tipped needle in an NH about 10+ years ago and so far, no problems. That being said, I don't put on near the miles that most of you do, maybe they were better back then, wouldn't surprise me. Back in the '60's-'70's when we first found out about them, they worked great in our "high" performance cars. :-) Of course, that was before we got this CRAPPY fuel shoved down our throats. No doubt, the Viton isn't as good as it used to be either, not much else is. :-( :-( Dave


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