So, I have been driving the '23 for a couple of weeks now and everything seems to be settling in nicely. Better acceleration and power in the engine etc. But .. the cardboard gasket on the hogs head cover is leaking and while I don't mind a little leaking around the pedals ... this other leak is a pain. Now that the body is on the car I hate the idea of straddling the compartment while swearing and wrestling the hogs head as I try to remove it for reinstallation.
I had used permatex 2 as I have for years. Didn't want to do a difficult job with something that dried too quickly. The installation of the cover with my new tight bands and longer springs was brutal and I suspect I lost some sealer during that session.
I know it would be better to start from the beginning ... but I have heard of people cleaning in the area of leaks with alcohol or acetone ... allowing it to dry and applying new sealer .. and hooking up a vacuum to the oil pipe to draw it in to the gaps.
Did you straighten your pan prior to installation of the block and hogs head? Most pans that I have seen are dimpled at each bolt hole. The dimpling leaves a greater clearance between the bolt holes. The excessive clearance (between bolt holes) can create leaks that even the best sealant job can't stop. Preparation of the surfaces is the key. Get the pan lip FLAT.
I assume you are talking about the seal between the bottom pan that goes all the way to front of the motor not the little cover at the top of the hog's head.
Given that - when I had leaks in that area I washed the outside of the seam with brake cleaner and applied a bead of black silicone. I used my finger (with a glove) so press the silicone into any gap and made sure cover both sides of any exposed gasket.
After the first application there was one small area that still leaked and I was able to repeat the procedure in that area to stop the leak.
This included the area between the hogs head and motor.
What I have done successfully in the past was to loosen the bolts on the hogs head and carefully tap in a few wide blade screwdrivers to slightly separate the seam, squirt in some RTV noting the areas that leaked the most, remove the screwdrivers and tighten the bolts. Once the RTV has set for a few days a single sided razor blade can be used to trim any RTV off the seam. Happy to say my 1919 Touring and 1931 Model A have zero leaks and have not for years.
If it were me, I'd slide a pan underneath to catch what leaks and drive the thing as is until the current driving season is over, then try Michael's approach.
I agree with Mark. As for sealant, if you're as slow as I am I don't recommend The Right Stuff. It's the wrong stuff for me, as it sets up before I'm ready. I've had good luck with Permatex Ultra Black, which is more forgiving of my slow work and makes a good seal.
John, I don't have a five ton Wilson jig if that's what you mean, but I pounded down the high spots as best I could and checked with a straight edge. Like I said above, I think I lost a lot of my original sealer during the initial installation. It was a bear.
Fred, Yes the cast hogs head ... not the transmission inspection cover. I never use anything other than a little grease for that and never have a leak.
Michael, I like that idea. But I will need to get the gasket really clean to insert RTV in there and get it to stick.
Mark, Yeah, I've been doing that. Have a nice old developing tray that I've used for years for the little drips. But I park at the same place at the Museum where I work and they are less forgiving when there is a permanent mark of where I've been.
Steve, Same for me. Had I used The Right Stuff when I was wrestling the difficult bands I would have had to start over again.
I have cleaned off the oil with solvent and then smeared some ultra black into the joint with my finger trying to work it in as much as I can. Wipe off any large globs of it and when it dries, it will look just like the black color of the crankcase and hogs head. I find that the usual places for leaking are at the area where the crankcase meets the block. This is also the area where it is very easy to crack the hogs head so be careful and not over tighten.
Permatex #2 was good stuff in its day, but the new Ultra Black has worked well for me. Hang in there Mark, and I'm glad to see you are in the club. These cars do get frustrating at times. Sit down and have a beer, or take a day off and go back to it later.
If the body was not on the chassis I would have taken the hogs head off and started over again. It's not actually leaking in the usual places ... so I'm convinced it's based on insuficient sealer more than fitting problems. I'll clean it up on all the edges and push in RTV ... and then drive to Hershey. By the time I get back it should be better.
Wipe the seam clean with solvent run beed smush it in keep smooshing until smooth let stand over nite
Wala fixed thr leak
I use brake cleaner and hook a small vacuum cleaner to the oil fill. Spray the area leaking and let dry. Then use black silicone and apply to the area and let the vacume pull the sealer into the area. Don't over fill or over pull the vacume. Shut off the vacume and let set up. Works every time for me. Works really well at the felt seal at the front of the hogs head. Hope this helps. Now you know every thing I know. Rooster 🐔
I stopped some leaks where the transmission cover fits to the engine pan using some RTV sealant. I got a rag and degreaser and wiped all the seams clean. Let it dry and used black RTV all around and used my finger to wipe the seams smooth. Works fine and no leaks.
I would like to add to the last post that I retightened all the bolts all around. Some were a little loose. And then I used the RTV sealant as above.