Just received my respoked wheels from Noah Stutzman. It took 2 month, but I think well worth the wait. I have missed driven Beatrice greatly. I would like to match the old oak finish with the rear wheels. I'm going natural wood. Recommendations for the stain?
Cherry or Mahogany would be my suggestion.
I didn't use any stain when I did mine. The first coat was 1/2 marine spar varnish, 1/4 boiled linseed oil, and 1/4 turpentine. Next three coats 3 full strength marine spar varnish, sanding with a Scotch Brite pad between each coat. I don't use urethane varnish. Been there, done that...not as durable. I wished I had applied a paste wood filler to the wheels before finishing to fill the open grain wood rather than letting the varnish do that. I could not find it in Wichita. I go to a real paint store to buy paint/varnish. I've had bad luck with the chain stores and popular lumber yards paint/varnishes. Using the finish as described above gave me the golden glow on the wood without stain that I was looking for.
Sikens Cetol marine finish. Its probably the best long lasting finish you can buy.
On my wheels I used a golden oak stain and covered with spar varnish. You can see it in my profile picture. They have darkened a little since the picture.
Those new spokes look great. I'm not familiar with Noah Stutzman. Is this a forum member or a distributor?
Just curious, it looks like new hubs and rims as well. What did that set you back? I am on 100 year old wheels.......
David, he's an Amish wheelwright in Ohio. He has a great reputation for doing excellent work reasonably priced. He made the new wheels for my runabout. I sent him the metal parts, bought at auctions and swap meets, and he assembled the new wheels.
If I had it to do over again, I would NOT prime the metal parts. I'd shoot them with the same paint I used on the finished wheels. Whatever you use will get dinged, and a lighter colored primer will show glaringly. After removing the primer, I used appliance epoxy enamel which needs no primer. Dings are easily touched up if they're visible.
Here are some of the wheelwrights who do Model T wheels:
Anderson’s Wooden Wheels
Dale Anderson – Owner-Operator
Box 1433, Prince Albert, Saskatchewan
Canada S6V 5S9
Phone (306) 763-4049
Fax (306) 763-4018
Calimer's Wheel Shop
30 East North St.
Waynesboro, PA 17268
Johnson's Wood Wheels
300 Ingleside Drive*
Ardmore, OK 73401
*Mail only; contact for shipping address
33656 County Rd 12
Baltic, OH 43804
Vintage Wheel Shop
19842 Via Redondo
Sonora, CA 95370
Robert, your question is of great interest to me.
Tim, that was funny. :-) Mr J, your softening. No mention of Henry and God intending them to be black... Hehehehe! :-)
The finish put on the wheels on my 18 have just about 40 years of aging and darkening (sitting in sheds) and is a beautiful color. To me.
A front wheel and felloe has terrible run-out inside the rim and gives a gentle lumpity-lump bounce to the car and I've considered sending the fronts or some replacement parts to Mr Stutzman or one of the other wheelwrights and wondered about coloring to match also.
Fresh wheels are very bright in color.
Would you show a pic of your rear wheels?
I was looking at spoke colors again just now over on Warren's "Who needs a Ruckstell?" thread.
Two nice spoke colors shown there. Oops! Three nice colors... :-)
Duey, I'm still annoyed by the modern fad of "natural" wheels (plus everything before 1960 wearing wide whites), but why
I know that I will fill safer motoring the corners with these front respoked wheels. I'll go with el natural with the finish, and some new ball bearings.
Duet C. My rears are old oak dark. I'll post picture tomorrow.
Robert, it is easier to control the depth of colour in the stain by mixing compatible stain into the finish material of your choice. The colour gets darker in steps as you apply subsequent coats of varnish. Just coat until you are happy with the match.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I like a bit of wood showing. I favor the 'black paint worn down to the wood, that is now has an oil soaked patina. :-)
I blended two colors of "Old Masters" stain (which I purchased from the local Aboffs store), "Crimson Fire" and "Rich Mahogany." -I wiped on two coats on consecutive days and then followed that with about ten coats of Epifanes high gloss clear varnish (marine spar varnish with UV protection).
The wheel turned out very rich and buttery looking without being too dark. -Here's a photo of it. -
If you like, I'll e-mail you Chip Button's directions for properly applying the varnish. -Just send me a PM with your e-mail address.