Other than the rebuild of the differential, this new manifold installation is giving me a problem. Can't seem to align all 6 ports at the same time. Any suggestions? New exhaust manifold and old intake. Owned the car since 1960's and first time so much of a problem.
Take gland rings and use tin snips to just nip off the length of the ring so that they "spring". Then put gland rings into exhaust manifold and apply the copper clad 3-1 seals to the block. Press exhaust manifold onto block. Align first and last manifold clamps VERTICAL to hold the manifold in place (run nuts on to hold, but not tight). THEN put on intake manifold and place two inner clamps on both intake and exhaust as normal installation. Rotate the first and last clamps horizontal and snug down. Gently torque all four nuts and go to lunch...there's just enough time...
Yes, it can be (is?) a challenging task. The usual comment is that you need three hands to mount the two manifolds.
What I, and I suspect most other Ford Fiddlers, do is mount the exhaust manifold first. After you have it set in place with all of it's rings and glands, secure it with two of the clamps oriented Vertically rather than horizontally. Run down the nuts finger tight.
Now, you can install the intake manifold with it's glands and rings and secure it with the clamps Horizontally, as they should be. With the intake manifold mounted you can rotate the two clamps on the exhaust manifold to the horizontal position and tighten all of the nuts.
Good luck with your project, Bill
There was a tool back in the day, made by Stevens, to hold the exhaust manifold in place while installing the intake manifold.
Hah, Scott and I were typing at the same time.
Thanks. Since I don't have the clamp I'm glad to have the method. Seems easy enough when you know what to do.
If your block surface has any rust pits, like mine, add some hi-temp sealer to the copper rings so the intake won't be sucking air instead of fuel.
The joke about 3 hands needed is true...until you do the 3rd or 4th manifold change.
Follow the advice above, it is good stuff. I'd also add the following (based on been there done that....about 2 dozen times by now
1- Try the sleeve in the block counter bore first. It either seats or it doesn't. If it doesn't adapt with a bit of Dremel work.
2- even though a new manifold, do the same with it. This way you will know if the gland will collapse enough. Work the gland until it drops in the manifold counter bore also
3- Tip...run the exhaust packing nut up tight on a new manifold with the manifold in a vice. Sometimes the iron thread is on the high limit. The nut WILL lap to fit if necessary, 1/2 turn on, 1/4 turn off, over and over until the nut does seat full. This is a lot easier in a vice than in the car.
4- dip the block end of the gland in grease and squish it in the counter bore. The tacky grease holds it in place and will burn off or carbonize later
5- do mount one manifold at a time using described above
6- mount all in place BEFORE pulling them down
You didn't mention what you are using for the "gasket". 3 in 1's do work, especially if the block has some cheesy iron around the bore. If using copper crush rings...beware...you really only get ONE crush out of them. Try to use them twice and you'll prob have a harder time starting.
Unfortunately, I'm already in winter mode and up north til the holidays or I'd come over and do it for you (:
that really is a neat clamp, isn't it?