Where can i buy this drive for my THOMAS distributor?
Thanks Ake Osterdahl
Ake - I'm not much help here as far as having a direct answer to your inquiry, however, perhaps in the interest of "clarification",......
I'm wondering if what you have pictured is more easily and accurately identified as a "timer" elevator"?
Back in the Model T era, there was an aftermarket accessory that was called a "timer elevator", that looked (to me anyway) like what your photo shows. It's purpose was merely to move the timer to a better position for several reasons; one, it moved the timer to a more accessible location and position to make cleaning and servicing the timer easier. And second, it moved the timer up to a higher location where it was less apt to be affected by road splash and dust and such. I believe the the "timer elevator" accessory would accept the original factory Ford timer as well as any of the many aftermarket brands of timers.
All of this to say that the term "timer elevator" might be more appropriate and make your search easier,.....FWIW,......harold
Good catch, Harold !
If someone does not come up with a better source,
Lab Threads & Gear Works, Inc advertises in the Horseless Carriage Gazette and they can make virtually any gear set. See there web site at: http://www.labthreads.com/contact_us.htm
Since in appears to be more of a "Timer Elevator" I would assume both gears are the same size. If they are not -- please let us know so I can add that to my notes. But if they are the same size/number of teeth, then you may or may not be able to adapt one of the various gear sets used by a different distributor. See Lang's B02 at: https://www.modeltford.com/item/BO2.aspx or AK-G3 at: https://www.modeltford.com/item/AK-G3.aspx Lang's also has other gear sets that appear to have different size gears. I would think that would cause the shafts to rotate at different speeds.
Good luck with your search.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Thanks you i might be able to buy Bosch drive.
Ake Osterdahl Sweden
Your photo shows a timer elevator as Hap described. The distributors use a conventional style cap and rotor, they are either made of pot metal or cast iron. The pot metal are generally always broken or missing legs. Is yours a timer elevator or distributor?
I have seen two types of gears for the distributors one that is keyed on and one that is threaded.
Is this the one that threads on to the end of the camshaft?
Thomas also made a front plate style, but is uses completely different gears. I am planning on running the front plate, so I have been gathering up anything I can find for parts.
I have never been able to find much on the Thomas Ignitions, here is one of the few ads.
Thanks for your information Kevin!
I've always wondered about how the timer rod was hooked up on the elevated timers ?
Is this what you are looking for?
Send me an e-mail and I will send you a better description,
Confusion may have been created by the selection of the photo you posted. Perhaps if you post a photo of your unit we can clear the air a bit.
Thomas made the timer elevator AND distributors. They looked and were similar. The way to tell the difference is that the timer elevator has a timer in the top and the distributor has a distributor in the top. Simple huh?
The timer looks and works like a timer, just a rotor and contacts. The distributor looks and works like a distributor, rotor, points, contacts and a condenser.
I have a nice one I was prepping to use on my speedster but could not find the same gear you are missing. In the following photos of my DISTRIBUTOR note the condenser on the front and the typical distributor plate inside. Since it runs off of the cam, the gear should match the one in the distributor housing bottom. It will look much like the one Ewe-taw posted.
Note that the original condenser has been replaced by someone long ago with a modern condenser in place of the larger Thomas condenser. Also note that if all my photos don't load just reload your page or click on the place holder displayed instead of the photo!
The information Terry posted shows all.
The first patent drawing shows the screw on gear, like I posted, and Ake had a request for in the initial post.
The second patent drawing shows the other gear, it is keyed and slips on a pin in the cam. The part number 47 is a disc that holds this gear captive in the distributor base for assembly.
I have both and will try to post some photos of both set ups.
I also have a front plate and it's shown below.
They are really well made units, although the pot metal ones do break down.
I am planning on running either the front plate or one of the cast iron, converted to pointless, (As Fred Huston did with the Atwater Kent LA).
Hope I am not high jacking this thread, but at least it will be all in one location.
Here are the rest, first cast iron Thomas distributor, with the screw on gear,
Second a pot metal with the slip on gear, and a couple of shots of the gear, and the gear held in place by the crescent shaped washer,
And last the wire holder and the ignition resistor,
Sorry I didn't get any photos of the front plate gear it was boxed up.
I have no idea when they changed from cast iron to pot metal or if they were made concurrently. The gears while made totally different seem to function in the very same manner. The keyed gear would certainly be cheaper to produce, so economics may have driven the change.
Like I said I didn't mean to high jack the thread but, in the future it will at least be easy to find.
Thanks again to all,
There is a gentleman I think from Oklahoma that is at Chickasha every year that has parts for nearly every antique distributor. He had parts for my Remy distributes. Maybe someone could post his contact info for you
Here's my latest installation on our '14 Touring - I've had this Thomas Elevator for years and this thread got me thinking that perhaps I'll try it on - seems to be O.K. - re-made a second different spark rod - attempted to utilize the correct swivel on the lower end but too much "monkey-motion" !
I don't have mine on yet it is still in the project phase. But I envisioned using the ball type ends, like I believe the earlier T's used and are still used on carburetor linkage. That way the rod can be threaded on both ends for a bit of adjustment.
Just my way of "skinnin' the cat"
About half way down "Ball Joint Linkage"