I am trying to figure why the battery is not being charged. The first place I look is at the switch wiring.
I am running a distributor and alternator, so I do have a jumper from the Mag to Bat post.
The rest looks good to me, but I am always open to ideas what I am doing wrong.
Here is the picture of the back of the switch plate.
WHY THE JUMPER WIRE from the Bat to the Mag post that would just create a short and ruin the mag coil if you have one ?
I am not running a mag.
Yes, BUT - I recharged a set of magnets for a good friend who upon finishing the rebuild on his engine & trans. assembly started on BAT then switched to MAG and proceeded to neutralize his newly charged magnets due to the previous owner running a distributor WITH A JUMPER !!!
If there is a mag coil and if your wire is connected to the magneto post, your alternator would be grounded out. However it would also run the battery dead and if you have a fuse would burn out the fuse and also cook the ammeter. If the wire is not connected to the magneto coil, you will need to test the alternator.
You would wire it just like a normal T with coils except don't connect the magneto wire to the magneto contact. The distributor/coil would receive power when the key is turned to battery. All you are doing is swapping the alternator for the generator and leaving out the magneto. The wire that connected to the coil box would now be connected to your coil.
Is the alternator a single wire or does it need an outside power supply to excite it?
Sorry. I should say no magnets. The red wire is not connected to the hogshead.
Here are some pics from when I re-wired mine. Early '27 (Oct'26)
I followed the 1926-1927 Model T wiring Diagram with Distributor, Electric Starter, Brake light and Optional Alternator. From Texas T Parts. It has a note about adding a jumper from MAG to BAT so the key can be in either direction to run the car. Has anyone wired their T up according to the Texas T Part diagram?
No but I understand.
Here is the part of the diagram that I am talking about.
Is this ok? I don't seem to get a charge on the battery.
Steve, Where is the red wire go to now, have you done a voltage check along the connections from the generator output terminal to the hot side of the starter switch or the positive terminal of the battery. Do a voltage test without starting the engine and another with the engine running. Engine running voltage should higher.
I will have to check tomorrow night.
From what I can see, your jumper is going from the Battery wire on the ammeter instead of the Generator wire side. That will change how the ammeter reads.
Well, to give an update.
I ran it last week with the way it was.
It seems that the ammeter went positive when the RPM where really high. Going down hills and low,low going up hills.
Now I am going to fiddle with things to get it to go on the positive side when the rpms are not so high.
By the way, you probably know this, but those Nylock nuts on the ammeter aren't doing any good because the studs are too short to engage the nylon inserts in the nuts.
The nylon lock nuts is what I had on hand.
They seem to be holding without the nylon being engaged.
The '19-25 set up is the same, it is just a rectangular shape. George, you take great pictures. Ford's wiring diagrams are difficult to read. I like the one that Langs sells. As far as the nuts and screws, they are still available from a decent hardware store.
I try Larry,thanks .