Has anyone replaced rivets on the driveshaft tube (at the ball end)? I noticed that two of mine have been sheared off on the inside of the tube.
What size rivets would be used? A few sizes are available from Snyder and they offer a gadget for installing them on a model A frame --it might be similar to the inside of a model T tube.
Doug, I have only done this once. From memory, I ground flats on a suitable piece of shafting. This shafting was driven into the tube and wedged the heads of the rivets tight against the wall of the tube. The rivets were heated cherry red from the outside and set while hot.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Doug, I use a shaft with a slight taper and keep taping it into the tube while you install the rivets.
I would grind down the head of the rivet head so it does not stick too far into the tube. Remember at some point you may need to drive the bushing out and will need to be able to get a tool past them to do the job.
Thank you Allan, Kim and Mark. Together those ideas will make it work.
So far I've found that removing the bushing can be done effectively by holding the tube vertical (with the ball-side down and resting on a block of wood) and then dropping a 3/4 inch impact socket into the tube (square hole up). The driveshaft can then be used as a slide-hammer by inserting it most of the way and then letting it drop a few inches within the tube. The bushing usually comes out within a few taps of the shaft.
That approach sets the diameter-size for a tool that must fit after the rivets are installed. With that in mind, I'm thinking that a slightly larger impact socket might work as the "backing anvil" once the rivets are in place --like the shafting that Kim noted.
I'll grind down the heads a bit per Mark's advice. And heating them cherry-red for setting them will finish off the job. Again, thank all of you...