With my broken/crushed hip healing I have been able to get my 21 Touring up on jackstands in the rear. The drivers side rear wheel goes on too far and locks up so , the day before my accident, I put one of the shims that I had on it. It is a .005 shim. I have a .010 shim to put on it as the .005 is not enough. My problem is, the hub fits tighter with the .005 shim and I can't remove the wheel by hitting the inside of the tire with my large rubber hammer like I have been. Guess I will order a puller from Langs.
It's a basic tool everybody needs sooner or later.
If it was possible to take off with a rubber hammer it wasn't tight enough - and if it isn't tight enough it'll wear the hub.
Check tightness of the axle nuts after some miles of driving - with a shim there's a bigger risk of loosening up.
Every Model T owner needs a proper rear wheel puller. The reason they weren't included in the tool roll from start was probably the cost and the abundance of Ford dealers supplied with tools back in the day.
I think Auto Zone rents special tools. Over the years many pullers from garage sales for little green and usually find use for all. I have a file drawer full of them.
Drop the left rear wheel back on the ground. Turn the axle nut around and install it castleations first so the nut bottom is flush with the end of the axle. I have and use a 2" diameter brass drift to whack the nut with. Or use a brass hammer. The wheel WILL come off...
Working with shims is a pain in the butt, especially if you have Rocky Mountain Brakes. -In that case, having a buddy there to provide a second pair of hands to hold the bands apart while you're putting the wheel back on really helps.
Also helpful is a can of artist's spray-mount. -It's not actual glue, but it will make things (like your woodruff key) tacky enough to stick in place while your hands are busy doing other things. -I use the stuff to laminate two shims together. -Yes, that's heresy, but for me, it worked great. -A spritz on the outside of the shim will make it stay put in the wheel while you're mounting it.
I got the wheel off. Still gonna get a puller, tho. I put the .010 shim on and reinstalled the wheel and problem solved. The axle nut is tight and the wheel turns. Now I have a new problem, No coils buzzing. The car was running fine 10 weeks ago, before my accident. I will be checking to see what has happened there.
Left something on and the battery is dead? Good Luck Tommy
No, the battery is charged. I will figure out tomorrow what the problem is, I hope.
I tried George's method today. Had two rear wheels to swap out. These wheels have not been apart in at least 20 years and maybe as long as 30 years. Used a little bit of my "magic juice", the nut broke free without too much trouble, even with the cotter key still in place. Worked the nut back and forth to work the rust out of it and off she came. Turned it around, put it on until flush and whacked it all with a brass hammer. The first wheel came off with about 10 good hits. The second wheel was much more obstinate. I had to beat the heck out of it. But, after about 30 good hits, she moved and I worked it off of the axle. The second side did not have any leaking axle oil on it, just the "magic juice" and a ton of rust.
"Magic Juice": 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. This mix has made many difficult jobs turn into a breeze to complete.
Thanks George. I appreciate you sharing with the rest of us. I just wanted to let everyone know; this method works.
No coils buzzing was an easy fix. During my absence someone had fully advanced the timing. I always leave the timing fully retarded, ready for starting. Rain is forecast every day for the next week, so I will have to wait a little while longer for that first ride.
I really lucked out at Hershey by finding a late teepee style Ford script rear hub puller with the built in knocker. I'm unaware of when they came out, but I'm been using one I have for over 50 years, and they are great.
I now have a puller. I used it today. Thanks a lot Ted.
I used my new puller again today, on the other rear wheel. Thanks again Ted. Both rears are torqued to 70 lb/ft now and turn freely. The puller will go in with the other tools that I will carry when I drive our T.