What's going on here?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: What's going on here?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 08:09 am:

Prior to July 18, when I was in am accident that has limited my ability to work on my '21 Touring, I had been working on the rear brakes. After buying some old, accessory shoes and relining them I was unhappy with them and bought new lined shoes from Lang's. I had already rebuilt the rear axle with brass thrust washers and modern axle seals. When the time came, after installing the new shoes, to put the rear wheels on, I found that one wheel locked up before getting as tight as should be. Now fast forward to this week, early October, and the wheel is on and turns freely after installing a .010 shim. All is well EXCEPT now the other wheel, which turned as it should before, now locks up when the axle nut is tightened.
Two questions- 1- As I am not using a torque wrench, could I be over tightening the axle nut and locking it up?
Question 2- Exactly what causes the wheel/hub to lock up, where is contact being made that shouldn't be? Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 08:34 am:

I just thought... I might have switched wheels from side to side. I had already tried that and found that the problem "went with the wheel". I suppose I need to check that next. Maybe the one that got the shim didn't need the shim. If that is not the case then what?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 08:45 am:

While it's true that you may have a worn out hub or two, the lined shoes from Lang's most likely need to be trimmed in their width. A common problem. Better to correct that than to needlessly use an axle shim.

When the wheel begins to bind, force it to turn a bit anyway, then remove it. Look for the rub spots to see where the binding is occurring. I'm fairly sure you'll find it's on the brake shoes. You could also try the wheels with the brake shoes removed, to see if binding still occurs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 01:39 pm:

Jerry, I did as you recommended and found that the drum, or something, is rubbing, actually shaving the outer edge of the lining. Where should I take off material? Just the outer edge, or should I grind some off the back of the shoe where it contacts the backing plate? There is space between the part of the shoe that the lining goes on and the backing plate. I would love to see some pics of what others have done to make the shoes work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 03:11 pm:

Tommy,

You need to narrow the shoes. Doesn't matter too much what edge you grind down, just so the overall width is decreased. You may also want to chamfer the edge of the lining a bit if the inside of the brake drum has a corner radius where a square edged lining might drag.

Just to be sure you don't have other issues as well, are you sure that the 6 hub bolts are not also hitting the spring perch hut?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 03:11 pm:

Any pictures??


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