Bought a nifty accessory stoplight at Hershey. Here is the bracket I made to hold the switch that's connected to the brake pedal. Yes, I know Henry used slotted machine screws on the transmission inspection cover. Never liked them ... have always used bolts and a magnetized wrench.
Thanks for the picture. I have several of those switches and now I know how to mount them.
I also drilled a hole in my brake pedal for a spring to work the brake light switch. I have a motorcycle switch and will be making a bracket to mount it on one of the ballcap bolts.
I have cans full of different types of iron rivets. So I flattened out the switch bracket and trimmed it to size. Then cut strap steel, clamped on the switch and drilled it for the rivets. Pounded the rivets on the underside and drilled a very small hole in the brake pedal. Took a couple of pieces of bailing wire to get the length right ... works great.
You might want to place a spring between the switch and the pedal so as the adjustment of the pedal travel moves due to wear in the band material, it will stretch slightly to accommodate the difference instead of trying to straighten the wire.
I was thinking a Spring as well.
I did have a spring there but it didn't work so well. For now am relying on the internal spring in the switch. Seems to be just the right amount of tension and extension. Will fine tune it if there is a problem.
I like John Regan's switch.
What does that look like?
All the switches I've seen are constant on/momentary off, which is the opposite of what I need. What part # is this switch?
Switches come in N.O. (Normally Open) and/or N.C. (Normally Closed). All of the items pictured come as part of the BLS-1 kit. Nothing wrong with Mark Osterman's approach either. I kept the switch backwards to prevent oil from getting inside the switch workings since most switches are sealed at the bottom but not at the place the button is. I also opted for a seal around the button anyway as further prevention since oil likes to migrate into anything not sealed. I also mounted it so that the transmission door had complete access to clean the filter out and/or adjust the bands without having to readjust the linkage. Nothing wrong with mounting it to the door if you don't have a filter in there to clean out now and then.
Main thing is that you have a good reliable super bright brake light and reliable switch. Try to set your operate point at the half way point from pedal full back to pedal fully depressed. Brake light is a must for driving among modern cars since if you do get in an accident you are about 99% most likely to get rear ended. How you design it isn't as important as how well it works.
Oh yes, I have seen that switch. It's super slick .. nicely designed and doesn't get in the way when you open the transmission cover. I guess mine is the "tinkerers version." I couldn't figure out another place for attachment given the switch geometry. It cost me an hour of time with stuff I already had. The light is on from about an inch of pedal depression.
Thanks John for the pic. Mark..here's one thing I REALLY like about John's switch, with a little tinkering, you can actually make this switch such that all you have to do is lightly push the brake pedal to activate the brake light, WITHOUT engaging the brake band. Why do I do this? It really helps get the tailgating idiots off your back while you start the "coasting procedure" prior to really using the brake. It works! Now, the down side is, at least in my application, I find it necessary to use my foot to "pull back" on the brake pedal enough to disengage the switch/brake light. Haven't quite gotten around to putting on a "return spring" to eliminate that procedure, but I've gotten pretty good at doing it
automatically. It's worth the effort!
The "trip point" for the light can be set anywhere in the travel of the foot pedal of course. The instructions call for it to be set about half way since the goal there is to prevent the brake light from being left on and running the battery down. There is no harm to any of the components if the trip point is changed to some point different.
It's too bad that someone can't make a replacement switch to go inside the inferior original looking switches offered by the vendors. Then, at least, we could buy a switch that looks correct! (For T's with starters).
The tail light and the newly installed vintage stop light on my T.