I've been driving my T for 3 days now. I thought that my ammeter must be bad. It shows a discharge with the engine not running and headlights on but shows 0 with the engine running and lights off. It starts with the electric starter, although I usually hand crank it. I decided, today to have a look at the third brush situation, with the generator on the car. Turns out I can move the third brush a half inch without loosening the nut. The nut was very loose, loose enough that it could easily have fallen off, inside the generator. That wouldn't be a good thing.
The generator was rebuilt when the engine was rebuilt, or so I'm told. The brushes do appear to be new. I hope that I can adjust it and make it work. I can see the nut that you are supposed to have a special wrench for. I think I can get to it with an ignition wrench.
Tommy, at least on mine, I can adjust the nut, with a standard 3/8" wrench---the closed end. I also bought an extra one so I can heat and put a bend in to make it easier.
I bought the repro tool, it was crap in my opinion. It's still sitting in my tool box.
An interesting report on that repro tool.
That sounds like operator trouble to me.
It is an exact copy of the original, only slightly thicker.
My repro tool has been working fine for years.
Depending on how/where null is set on the generator, about the only thing that will easily get to that nut when the brush is advanced for heavy output is that repro or original tool. As far as it being crap, it was never intended to really tighten the nut TIGHT, as doing so risks shorting through the insulation unless it has been rebuilt using G10 material. Tight enough to energize the lock washer is all that is really needed.
Well, maybe I am just over tightening it then. Maybe I am just used to modern tools. But either way, both my gen's I used a box end wrench. I stated my opinion, I am sorry if I offended the maker or anyone else.
I don't think you offended any one...at least not me! I was just suspicious that you were over-tightening the nut and I agree that the wrench certainly is flimsy...still, it does the job when you use it as intended...that being "not too tight". The original insulation was pretty thin and is prone to failure particularly under that nut on the back side when the bolt/screw is pulled through the insulation. The modern G10 material puts that problem to bed...you can really tighten down on that stuff (though you really don't need to)
Chad, I don't think anyone here is offended, and yes you are entitled to your own opinion. It's just that a lot of us have used the repro wrench without incident, including myself.
I'm in the same boat you are. Bought the repro tool. Doesn't work at all. It didn't even fit the nut without having to be modified! It sits in my T tool box, though I doubt I'll ever use it.
An box-end 5/16" wrench does the trick for me.
I own several of the repro wrenches. One in each car. All have worked perfectly. They're dead-on copies of the original, which I also have one or two of.
No problem. Just enjoy the ride!
OK now what do I do? Should I start moving the third brush around and see if the ammeter starts to show a charge? Any chance of that happening? Thanks.
I watched Mike Benders video again and now I suppose I will remove the generator from the car. I will find neutral so I can then adjust the third brush.