Well that didn't last long. The cheap junk starter switch that I put on our T has been used only a few times until it flew apart yesterday. I work at a NAPA parts store and thought about putting one of "ours" on it but ours mounts with two bolts/screws, one on either side of the button. I was reluctant to drill extra holes in my almost 100 year old metal floor but now I think I will.
The suppliers offer a "better quality", but not 100% authentic switch. That's the one to get.
The problem with those starter switches is that a lot of current has to flow through those contacts. To prevent heat build-up and arcing, those contacts need to open and close as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, using your foot to close those contacts just isn't fast enough. The contacts need to be majorly overbuilt to handle the arcing and heat that is going to occur, but they'll eventually wear down. The repro switches aren't built as sturdy as the originals, so they don't last anywhere near as long.
I always recommend installing a solenoid, and using the foot switch to activate it. Makes it last a lot longer
Originals are fairly common at flea markets. One style comes apart with screws, the other has bent over tab, Heat the tabs so they won't break off. Clean the contacts check the insulators and reassemble. Once done I have never had to touch one again
I agree with Dan. I have one additional comment though. I rebuilt a perfect switch with screws for my '25, and even with the extension, it wouldn't stick out of the seat riser panel far enough to start the car. I wound up putting a tab type switch on it, and it has been fine ever since.
Me Thinks the only good Cheap Chinese thing is buffet food.
Amen to that Jim!!
Jim for the first time I'm not agree with you about something . Last time I ate Chinese food, I was so sick, I thought I will die so I never went there any more. So for me, I stay away about all Chinese stuff...
I always prefer Japanese food over Chinese "one dish" cuisine. Never feel bad afterwards.
I make stuff in China. You get what you pay for there, same as here. Cheap purchasing weasles are the problem. Everyone has been "Wall Marted" into thinking they are going to get good stuff cheap. NOT.
From one of the Naked Gun movies :
Ricardo Montauban - “ Tell me Lieutenant are you a gambling man ? “
Leslie Nelson - “ Only when I eat Chinese ..... “
From the "Don't ask me how I know" personal knowledge base, the better quality USA made starter switch does not fit on a TT chassis. The reason is that the mounting holes on the frame are offset with the rear one being far from the inner edge of the rail. The switch therefore sits in a slightly cockeyed position when installed. The raised portion of the switch plate on this reproduction piece cannot clear the TT frame rail and still have the bolt holes line up.
As to why the TT's were made this way, I'd be interested in learning.
Rich,My TT not made that way,very strange.makes me think someone may have put a home made plate on that chassis at some point.
I put a solenoid on my pickup project to protect the foot button.The solenoid bolt pattern will fit fine over the top bolts holding steering column on the dash and it can be removed without permanent injury to the T or TT.
Freighter Jim, I ate chinese at 1 pm, still have heartburn. It never bothered me like that before.Must have been someting wong with the food?
Got no holes in the frame on my 18 but have gaping holes for a switch in the "foot plate?" on my 17 bodied 18.
I chose a crappy old switch that came along with the 18, cleaned it up a bit, plopped it back in and used a 6V solenoid from my local NAPA store.
Works good! Not correct and have caught hell about it but it works good...
The "starter foot switch" has had a long and in some cases laughable run always from the same vendor so far as I know. He once marketed one that looked OK from the outside but inside it had a Printed Circuit board "disc" that was round with copper foil on the bottom and spring rigged to pull it back up. I looked at it and could not figure out how on earth anyone could think you could pass hundreds of amps through the foil on a small round printed wiring board kind of disc with copper foil on the bottom. The foil quickly vaporized off when the switch operated and that was the end of that idea but it made it all the way into the market place first. There were other ideas but none of them worked and the only thing that was NOT tried was the original design available if one simply bought the original drawings and made it like Ford did. The final approach was to buy an off-the-shelf tractor push button switch and make a mounting adapter base for it. I don't know if the switch being used is still the same thing but it looks the same. Maybe it is so clearly it would have to be the cheapest switch one could find that would do the job at least somewhat - cheapness is of paramount importance ha ha. I have a few originals squirreled away that should last me for as long as I will need one. They don't seem really too hard to find.
The TT seat is closer to the firewall
Rich, your TT was a non-electric model with no starter or need for a switch.
I have drilled out the nearby rivet a few times to add a starter switch in the correct location.
Here is a correct improvement.
Another option with an old switch part.