Wheel condition / Spoke Install

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Wheel condition / Spoke Install
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Heiser on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 09:50 am:

I am planning to re-spoke the '25 T wheels. After knocking out old spokes I see there is some corrosion internal to the tenon holes. I plan on cleaning off rust but I need to be careful not to change the ID of the inner tenon walls with cleaning or coating as these are a tight fit. The inner surface feels rough of course.
I have a pic of one wheel tenon hole.
Any thoughts or suggestions?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 10:14 am:

I use this stuff just wire brush the big stuff, then use a brush to apply protects from future rust once top coated http://ospho.com/index.htm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson College Place, WA on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 10:29 am:

I sand blasted, then powder coated the metal fello rings on the set of wheels currently under construction. They went together just fine. You have lost a little metal at the place where the spokes seat, so if anything you need a little something to replace it with to keep things tight.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 10:50 am:

David,

Any increase in the tenon I.D. has already been done by the rust. Usually, the spoke tenons are much larger and need to be forced into place. I don't believe the loss of material will affect things greatly. If you're unsure, then measure the I.D. after you clean the rust out and confirm with your poke manufacturer/supplier that you're still good to go. If you're dealing with Stutzman, I'm certain he can make the tenons a bit larger if needed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 12:30 pm:

It seems as though there is very little area of rust and the procedure I am suggesting might be a waist of time. However, I will give it to you anyway. It may come in handy for you and others in the future.

I use it to remove rust from old tools and small parts.

You can build an electrolysis tank. It will take off the rust only. No metal will be removed. It will not remove any other material except rust. However, it will turn metal black and you will have to scrub it off with water and a brush. Right after removing the black deposits you need to oil or paint the part as it will start to film over with surface rust. In other words do not let the metal sit bare treat it with something.

The procedures are on line. Simple to build!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 02:45 pm:

John is right, but I would add a step. After scrubbing off the black residue, prep the metal with a spray of 50/50 mix of phosphoric acid and water, then wipe dry the best you can and let it air dry before painting. I do this after rust removal by any method (electrolysis, blasting, wire brush,etc.). Play surgeon and wear rubber gloves when you do this. The reason for the metal prep is to prevent rust from forming under the paint. There are commercial metal prep products available, but it's much cheaper to buy straight phosphoric acid and add it to water yourself. Voice of experience here.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 05:25 pm:

Yes, exactly, you have to prep the metal before painting. I use a PPG product(it is like prepsol), forget name, expensive!

Lacquer thinner works good too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 07:25 pm:

If you're using "DP" epoxy primer, it adheres better to bare metal than "prepped" metal.Check the documentation!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 09:14 pm:

Very familiar with the DP product and it does what you state. I spray a coat or two on bare metal and do the body work right over the DP. Then, respray and prime.

Great product!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 - 12:12 am:

OH forgot! When I said, "prep" the metal all I was referring to is cleaning the medal prior to painting and what DP is "prep" prior to body work.

In the case of removing rust in this thread a by product of electrolysis is it turns the metal black and it must be addressed. Simple water and a brush will resolve it. I am curious as to what the affects of phosphoric acid are as I know nothing about it. Is this something body shops did? There are many ways to skin a cat!

I do love the modern chemicals they function as designed. But, always interested in learning new stuff!


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration