Iíve built a single seat speedster. Iím useing a 4 to 1 wheel and shortened the steering shaft and housing to just behind and above the motor. I then used good u- joints and drilled the set screws into the shaft. Double sets on both ends of the u joints. The shaft connects to the lower so called factory box. I am looking for a good steering box to replace the factory one. Ive looked at Vega and VW but
Iím afraid the ratio would be wrong with the 4 to 1 and the reduction of the gear box. Anyone out there have any ideas and photos of how yíall have done this. Iíll post a pik of the car and maybe someoneís been down this road. Thanks in advance.
Richard. The factory gear box is on top of the column. It is a planetary gear system. If you are planning on using a gearbox at the bottom such as a vega, then you must get rid of the gears at the top. The shaft has to hook directly to the steering wheel and not go thru the stock planet gears. So a custom shaft is needed. You say that the u-joints you are using are "double set screwed to the shaft". If the shafts are round shafts in a round hole that is not good enough or safe. You need a shaft and u-joints that are either splined or Double D in design. Flaming River or Borgenson sell 36 spline shafts and u-joints as well as Double D shafts and u-joints. I prefer to use the 36 spline shafts as you can "clock" them to 36 different positions. The Double D shafts will only "clock" to two positions. The reason a round shaft in a round hole is unsafe is because you are only depending on the two little points of your set screws to keep you alive and moving down the road. They can strip out in a hard turn. The 36 splines or the Double D parts have a real heavy duty engagement that is almost impossible to strip out or break. Nice looking car. Have fun and be safe ...... Donnie Brown ....
Hi, I just got a Ross box out of a boat.It is made as a cross shaft. The ratio is 4 to 1 in the box but only travels about 150 degrees. that way it wont go over center. And yes it is splined on both ends. Scott
I have been playing around with reproducing the Ross steering box that was offered during the T era. I have made a couple of the ones that fit 26-7 frame. Iím now working on a pattern of one to fit the earlier frame. I also plan to make a couple earlier ones to fit RHD.
Also I have a laser cut locking disc that removes the planetary gear set below the steering wheel
Cant wait Less
I have a single seat 1928 sprint car. The steering box I used was out of a mid 20's sedan. I added a bracket and mounting tube on the opposite side of the out put shaft. I extended the spline shaft to go out beyond the body. Send me your email address and I will send you photos. I used an agriculture universal shaft joint purchased at NAPA, they have a great selection and the joints are very strong and safe.
Brass car guy. I sent you the e mail. Thanks. I was mistaken. The u joints are pinned with a clevis pin but had just a slight bit at slop so I double set screwed each end. With the 17 inch Ford v8 wheels and almost 4 inches of rubber on the ground and the lower tire pressure itís hard to turn the wheel sitting still. Maybe it wonít be so bad rolling.
I should have said the u joints are pinned all the way through with a clevis pin and the double set screws were to take any slop out of the connection. I used 17Ē Ford V8 wire wheels and with the almost 4 ď of rubber and 25# air pressure it seems hard to turn the wheel. Maybe it wonít be so bad when rolling.
Thanks guys. All good advise.
Here's how I converted a Model A steering. Caution picture heavy. A shaft adapter was machined with a square hole to lengthen the steering arm so there was no welding. Other pictures show the quick change steering wheel adapter, and modifications made to the steering box itself.
Nice job. Thanks for the perfect photos.