My fuel shut off leaks even when in the off position. Are there replacements to be found. Mine is the original brass looking valve.
Yep, replacements can be bought. Consider a rebuild of what you have first, nothing about a T is particularly difficult to learn to do and replacement parts often aren't quite as good as originals.
I shut off my fuel without a valve at the carb. That's one of several approaches covered here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/779545.html?1503057551
I rebuilt mine with new parts and it didn't stop the leak. I am not sure why, it leaks, but it does. I have to use an inline shut-off valve.
While it doesn't look period, I like my ball valve. Easy to turn and never leaks
John, Where did you find a small diameter metal ball valve? The ones I find are all plastic.
Any decent local hardware store will have metal ball valves in several sizes.
Some have reported smearing polishing compound between the brass mating surfaces and then rotating the handle back and forth to make everything mate better and not leak. I have never done this so hopefully someone with experience will chime in.
I have this one on all my cars. They don't leak, and except for one, they also don't get so stiff you have to use a pair of pliers on 'em to turn 'em.
"Some have reported smearing polishing compound between the brass mating surfaces and then rotating the handle back and forth to make everything mate better and not leak. I have never done this so hopefully someone with experience will chime in."
Michael I have used the soft metal (yellow container) Time Saver on the original sediment bulb shut-off and the brass elbow shut-off I have at the carburetor with great success. It's a "cone" type also. I also use EZ-turn Lang's PN #2902Lub It's been three years and no leaks or seepage.The ball type valve is a nice valve If one likes the look of them.
Thomas, Steve is correct, I got mine at a plumbing supply house. Mine is 1/8 inch so the big box stores may not have them. You can always order from amazon
Per Michael Pawelek's comment.
My period shutoff at the carb leaked; it was disassembled and some rubbing compound applied. I chucked the handle in a hand drill since things were a little rough and let it spin gently. On reassembly a touch of silicone dielectric grease was applied since it was close at hand and a thin washer added to pull things a bit tighter because the taper sits quite deep in the bore. I would hope most tapers don't need enough material removed to warrant an extra washer to take things up tight but who knows how many times this one has been polished in the past.
This was six months or more ago and it still operates well without leaking hopefully it keeps working for years to come.