Can i wire the tail light to the stop suith and use the same bulb for stop light ,? using a relay or diode ? --im not sure if a diode will be good if i feed + to it at both ends when using the lights ? Or will it work?? Thank you Lorenzo
Lorenzo, If you are using the 1157 Lamp for 12 volts and the 1154 for 6 volts, these are a dual filament bulbs: one low wattage for the 3 candlepower tail light and a higher wattage 32 candlepower (or so) for the Stop light or turn signal. A small relay from Radio Shack is easy to wire up. The current draw is pretty good for these bulbs, so the relay is a way to offload the high current from your headlight switch. It can get pretty hot with headlights and brake lights all going!
Thomas, i was thinking using the 12v single filament, but i see that when the lights go on the stop part stops working, i must reevaluate probably need to use other light for stop
Thank you for your input
I had a single contact/filament light that I wanted to use as a marker light AND a turn signal. The answer was a new socket with double contacts for a double filament bulb or in my case a double contact LED bulb (replacement). I have done the same for the tail/stop lights. The LED bulbs will use less power and put out more light. I just mounted the new sockets in the old fixtures, the same as the originals.
The replacement sockets are available on line through several different vendors. Inexpensive as well. Then you can choose the voltage bulbs you use, either 6 or 12 volt, conventional or LED.
The diode will work but, because you want the running lights to be less bright than the brake lights, you're going to need multiple diodes or a dropping resistor to get the voltage where you need it. You also need to worry about the power dissipated in those components, which is not trivial.
I plan to do that with the LED brake lights I made for my speedster. I have all the components, but I haven't gotten around to putting it together yet.
I wanted good visibility from the rear so I opted for tail, turn signals and brake lights. I used 28-31 tail lights and a 3 to 2 converter. Turn signal gets priority. Works good.
I also have single contact socket tail lights. Yes, I have one on each side. It was required because of the luggage rack. I installed brighter 6V bulbs. I happened to have a variable resistor, that I installed in the wire going to the tail lights, and adjusted it for suitable taillight brightness. Then i wired a witch, that was connected to the brake pedal, so it bypassed the resistor when I pushed the pedal.
Pretty simple solution really!
I wish I was a good artist so I could sketch a wired witch bypassing a resistor! :-)
That solution works fine, as long as your resistor can handle the power you are dissipating there.
This is a circuit I have used in the past. It takes advantage of the voltage drop of the diodes.
I have a later replacement Ford taillight bracket assembly. It uses a socket much like the headlights. You only need to find an aftermarket double contact spring loaded taillight plug. Once you do that, buy a Model A aftermarket turn signal bulb from Snyder, and you will have an authentic sort of original taillight and stoplight combination for your car. I'm using an original genuine Ford stoplight switch mounted to the Bendix cover. Works great, and just about no one can tell, but I just did!
I went the route of replacing my tails/stops with replacements from Brattons that look and function very much like period units. However, on the '26 Tudor I'm working on I will keep the original tail light, add another to the right side, and order the LED inserts from Brattons (if I can make them fit). Their LED inserts can be adapted to either have separate functions of tail/stop, or left as is and and they function very much like a dual filament bulb with two differing light intensities. You do have to special order them at a modest additional cost to be negative ground.