The title pretty much says it. This stuff costs a fortune, and I don't want to ruin it. But the little bit of bending I've tried so far is not looking good. I'm afraid it's headed towards being an unusable mangled mess. Any suggestions on how to make the bends come out correctly so they'll fit?
I'm going to quit and work on other stuff until I have a better idea of what I'm doing.
This is the piece I'm trying to fit.
Looks like heat is involved:
I have some NOS upper channels - nickel plating over brass.
It appears that the bends were made using rollers.
Notice in photos two through five below that the edge has a radius. The channel is nearly flat until the bend. Where the channel bends around the corner, the edge has a radius.
Perhaps if you rounded the edge of the corner on your form, instead of having a flat surface, that may help your plight.
Hope what I am saying makes sense.
Note the left to right radius in the photos below:
One problem I see right away is the manner in which you have clamped the brass; you need to make a piece (wood would work) that the channel fits into so you don't distort it at all where you've clamped it. You then need to make a short piece just like it to work the brass around the curve. One has to go slowly here!
I don't know if heat is required here, this is not an extrusion as is described in the article, and the metal is so thin, it would be very easy to overheat it! If I were heating it, I would use a large soft flame so as to not concentrate the heat in any one place.
BTW, regarding nickel plating over brass: I bought some reproduction brass channel for my '25, which authentically should be nickel plated. I have one of the rather inexpensive Caswell brush plating kits (use it for toy train & player piano work). I carefully polished the brass channel (by hand, no wheel!!) and then used the brush plating kit to plate it--it looks wonderful! Too nice for my '25, in fact!
Steve, heat will be needed to aneal the brass first. As posted, be very gentle.
Then a former will belp greatly. You need to stop the sides from spreading or collapsing inwards. If you have access to a table saw, you might try this. Use a piece of hardwood to cut a round corner to suit the bend needed. Then set the saw blade above the table at the same height as the depth of the sides of the channel. Use the table saw to make a cut around the corner of the former, adjusting the fence to get the cut the correct widtg of the tolled edge og the brass. Then repeat the process to make a second cut to allow the other side of the channel to fit.
This will give you a tool shich will control spreading and colapsing of the sides.
I had to make a similar tool to bend aluminium C moulding when rebuilding my Duncan abd Fraser roadster.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I had the same problem and thought I could do it but lost my nerve when I saw the price of the material. If you have a standard windshield, I think you can buy the brass lining. I have an "automatic" windshield and the size is different than the standard. My plan was to make a plywood form the exact size of the glass. I then took a piece of maple and routed a grove the size of the grove in the windshield. It would be about 1 1/2 by 3 by about 8. The routing would be in the 1 1/2 and along the 8 inches. Clamp the plywood waist high and have several clamps ready. Heat the brass and work the bend with the routed block and a hammer slowly. Clamp as you go to keep the brass on the plywood template. It should work but I gave up and cleaned up the old brass. As I remember, the brass piece was about $400.00. Too much for me, good luck.
Paging Richard Eagle, report to brass channel bending, operating room 7, paging Richard Eagle...
I used the same plywood ID inside form as your photo held in a vise, then cut a slot in a 2 inch long block of maple made snug fit to the outer channel "U" shape. I annealed the brass before bending, then progressively formed the bend by dragging the block around this bend. Turned out perfect. This channel can be seen on the Rands windshield on my 12 Touring located at the Richmond Museum.
Maybe this will help.