I am going to attempt John Regan's Shop Vac trick to stop an oil leak.
What should I use to clean the area of the oil leak so the Permatex ultra black will take hold?
Would having a de-greaser sucked in the block cause issues?
Does anyone have the full write up John Regan's Shop Vac trick to stop an oil leak?
I have put together the bits by blowing into the oil hole to find the area then draw the air and fill the are with the Permatex.
Is there something I am missing?
Ask him at this e-mail address
John F. Regan, President
I I'm not much on using s liquid on curing an oil leak on worn parts but---------- my 1961 tractor leaked oil from the power steering all most as fast as you could put more in.
I got a 11.00 bottle of Lucas stop leak from NAPA and put it in the tractor. Within a few minuets no more leaks and the tractor steers with two fingers.
Its for power steering----the guarantee says it will stop oil leaks or your money back.
Never tried it on a T but I will.
I also had good luck with stop leak on an old Mopar, but I think that PS stop leak works by swelling the seals. If you have no seals, there's nothing to swell, so it might not work.
I have now used it on my 95 Aerostar with the same results. The problem with the tractor was its gear driven any leak from the pump goes back into the engine raising the oil level on the dip stick. It still runs sixty pounds so I guess its not a problem in diesel oil.
I would bet it would stop the leaks from a worn rear end. Folks tend to have an issue leaking oil on there nice driveway.
Steve, I think the shop vac is a novel idea and should work great except for maybe the smallest bothersome leaks. I think any good degreaser would work and maybe even a brake cleaner which evaporates quickly.
I don't think you have to worry too much about damage to the internals but an oil change afterwards would be good practice.
One idea that comes to mind is that if there is a gasket at the leak that may be soaked in oil it may present a bit more problem.
We have always used naptha, lacquer thinner or acetone to remove the oil from the surface.
You can't go wrong with the Ultra Black and even if you don't get it to suck into the crack a light coat over the area will most times work fine.
I'm picturing the fumes from the degreaser getting sucked into the vacuum cleaner motor. Is it flammable?
Vacuums sucking and igniting fumes is an "interesting" experience (if you are lucky?)
I tend to like lacquer thinner for cleaning oil in an effort to seal a leak. But let it evaporate well before applying the vacuum motor. Lacquer thinner tends to really pull oil out and leaves almost no residue. Alcohol may also work well.
Plan ahead and be safe!
And aim the exhaust of the vacuum away from anything flammable.
I have located the source of the leak. Now the big question is and I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I need to drain while before I turn the vacuum around and start drawing air out of it l? the way I see it I'll end up sucking the oil out of the wall pan before I actually do any good.
For 11.00 I would try the Lucas then post if it works or not you can always use a number of solvents to clean it out----personally doubt you would---it works
Where is the leak?
The leak is between the hogshead and the 4 main.
The oil has been draining all night. Going to try the shop vac trick tonight.
It just needs to slow down the leak to get me through the week end stroll. Next weekend I will slide the engine forward the 6 inches to fix the oil leak for good. I know oxymoron Model T and fixed oil lead.
One more thing. I found a brand new in the sales container tube of Permatex ultra black that is about 15 years old.
What is the thought of it still being good?
I don't believe that Permatex had the same RTV as the Ultra Black available today.
the old r11 chillers ran in a vacuum,if they develop a leak we would paint the gasket edges with Glyptal