I'm about to change out the hub on one of my wood spoke wheels due to a crack in the hub. If I recall from a previous discussion, the hub nuts are staked.
So, when I remove the old nuts, should I expect them to be really hard to break loose or will they spin off pretty easily ? My concern is that I might damage the square holes in the outer (2827U) hub flange if I put too much torque on the nuts. Also of concern is the possibility of spinning the outer plate and damaging the holes in the wood spokes.
No, you won't damage the holes. If a nut is stuck tight with rust you'll just twist the bolt until it breaks off. If this wheel is like a good many I've dealt with, you want new RV Anderson bolts all around.
I second Steve's vote on RV's bolts. Personally, I like to pien the bolts, makes it a lot easier to retighten them in the future if need be. JMHO Dave
Thanks Steve. RV Anderson bolts ? I was just going to include a set of replacements in a Langs order. Are the RVA bolts different in some way or especially high quality ?
Doesn't look like rust will be a problem. The seals have leaked so much that the hub is embalmed with grease.
To make the nut removal easier, grind the bolt even with the top of the nut or a little more. This will remove all the the pien, if there was any, and most of the stake, if there was any. Then, any rust will be just in the nut and pretty easy to break loose.
Just did two T wheels/hubs and two TT wheels/hub. The TT was much more difficult as it had been sitting outside for the last 30 years.
Just plan on all new nuts and bolts. The Anderson products are top notch. I'm planning on using them when the time comes.
My bet is that Lang's gets the bolts listed here from RV Anderson, but it doesn't hurt to call them and ask:
I always grind off the exposed thread before undoing the nuts. This saves messing up the thread in the nuts. Original nuts have a character all their own. They are not perfect like their modern replacements. In their exposed position on the front wheels, the originals look mush better.
Allan from down under.
Dunno why I even worried about taking the nuts off. After reading you guy's comments, I went out to the shop and hit the nuts with an impact wrench. In about 3 minutes I had all six nuts off. It would have taken more like 30 seconds if the nuts hadn't kept sticking in the socket after they were off.
The bolts came out just fine. Only one bolt was slightly corroded. The rest looked like new.
Now the only problem is getting the hub out without disturbing the spokes. Spokes are in excellent condition and I hate to disturb them.
Dick, Don't worry about the spokes moving too much. I had to use a hammer to tap on the spokes to "walk" the hub out. They flexed but never came apart. Once they're in, they're in for just about ever.
I should have warned you about the nuts sticking in an impact socket. Really frustrating, isn't it?
Dick, I too have just whipped them off with my impact gun with zero issues. However, it really is good practice to grind the old bolt down flush with the nuts to make it easier removal or not messing up the squares in the hub.
But glad you got them off either way.
What everyone else said. And even if you don't have to do anything to repair on the other wheel, change those bolts for safety reasons. You have seen the bent LR fender on my 14. The original bolts Will Shear! Auxiliary brakes like my A/C just sped up the process.
Also, if those nuts aren't staked or Loctited, they will work loose and the bolts will fall out. AMHIK! Unknown to me, the previous owner of my car did not install them right. One day I stepped on the brakes and nothing happened. Figured out later that I was down to one bolt, which sheared, and the spoke ends were just spinning in the hub. Luckily, I was going very slowly and the wheel didn't fall apart. I just drifted off the side of the road and stopped.
I was only 1/2 mile from home, so I walked back and grabbed a jack and wheel puller. Put the wheel back together with hardware store carriage bolts just so I could get the car home, then did it right.
Scary part is, in another 1/2 mile, I would have been on a mile long downhill with a stop sign at the bottom
R.V Anderson bolts are grade 5. Originals were grade 2 or less and easily twisted off.
One last comment:
I did call RV Anderson about the hub bolts. He told me that Lang's gets their bolts from him, and that I was just as well to place the order with Lang's. Very nice man to talk to and very prompt return of my call.
RV did not specify which other suppliers get their bolts from him, but I got the impression that not all do so.
Thanks for all the kind remarks. Dick, you are correct; it's only Lang's and myself that carry my bolts.