I lost count, but I turned in at least six full cups. Maybe seven. It never did start oozing out anywhere. Anybody know how many cups it takes to fill the cavity? I'm just curious how close to full it is.
How many cups is a couple of handfuls?
Only half of the cup gets into the U-joint ball for every complete screw down, so it's quite time consuming - I consider putting a zerk fitting inside since I fill four cups every time I've been out more than 50 miles - and it still won't ooze out, takes like 50 cups to fill, it seems
(Got to check up that fourth main this winter, it's leaking a lot of oil diluting the grease, so that's why I fill so often with grease)
I agree with Roger. I have the grease cup with the zerk in all mine. If the cavity is empty, you could take literally all day filling it as it should be using just the cup. About every 500 miles I get out my grease gun and give it about 30-35 pumps, after an afternoon out, some grease will start to ooze out around the coupling ring. I figure I have plenty enough in it then!
Wow, I also do 30 pumps.
If you love the original grease cups in their unmodified condition, I would recommend removing them, temporarily installing zerks, greasing it, then replacing the cups. A LOT easier on the wrists.
The best thing to do is pack the cavity with light chassis grease before you slip the torque tube into the back of the engine. Tims suggestion on a zerk is good too if you really need to get a lot of light grease in there, but I still would put the standard grease cup back on after that. Don't use cup grease either, it's too thick.
Do not use grease with molybdnm in it. Sometimes it gets through the 4th main into the transmission and can screw up the magneto. Use just plain grease.
I have original cup and just hold down firmly on tip of gun and pump away. It seals good till about full. Steve please let us know how many cups. I have been thinking about it all day.
Dallas, said "I have original cup and just hold down firmly on tip of gun and pump away. It seals good till about full."
I do the same thing but I have a rubber hose (on the outside of the metal end) that sticks out a little from the end of the metal tip to make the seal.
You can buy rubber tipped grease needles at some auto parts stores. Or, you can raid your old parts bins for small vacuum caps, punch a hole in one end, and slide it over a metal grease needle.
In using the rubber tipped grease needle, are you removing the entire cup or are you just removing the cap and sticking the needle down into the bottom of the cup ?
I just remove cap. If you remove cup you could screw in temporary zerk, but I am lazy.
Have your cake and eat it too:
The bottom of the cup acts like a guide and funnels the grease needle into position, leave the cup in.
By the way, I also use the rubber tipped grease needle pressed into the oilers to grease my spring shackle bushings, see attached thread.
I do use chain saw bar oil on the kingpins and tie rods because I want the oil to run down the full length of them.
Walter, that's the exact grease cup/zerk outfit I use on all 3 of mine. The '20 & the '12 have had the rear end/drive shaft pulled so they went back together packed with grease to begin with, so now it's real easy to keep 'em that way...hence the 30-35 pumps. The '13 is next on the list. When I first got it, I took the old standard cup off and peeked in the hole, as expected, it looked pretty empty! So on went the "cheater" and I did probably 50-65 pumps, I think it got pretty full by then. When it came to judging time at the annual tour two years ago, I put the correct one on. The zerk cup is back on again!
I just keep packing it in there until I see fresh grease oozing out.
I was going to use the gun until I saw what Dallas said. It's up to a dozen cups now, and still no ooze. I'll do some more tomorrow.
If you do not have a good seal you could be pumping a ton of grease into your transmission. Not a good idea.
Mighty unlikely. It's a fresh ball cap. Not much clearance for grease to get through.
If it starts coming out the oil fill, you put too much in Steve! Lol
The grease will leak out between the ball and the cap before it will ever go into the engine.
Calculate the inside volume of the sphere less the volume of the U-joint. That should tell you the approx. required amount of grease to fill the void.
Good to know. I need to buy the new cup with the fitting inside. That's cool.
First of all, Steve, What kind of grease are you using? RED GREASE !! I agree with Larry and Walter. I filled the ball cap with grease before I put it together. I have a zerk fitting on my u-joint and the drive shaft on my 1911. every time I go on a tour I grease them 10 times with a grease gun. It has worked well for 25 years.
Yes, red. Royce packs his timer with the stuff and he says it works, so maybe it's OK. Now that I've done it this way, next time I'll fill the thing before I put it together.
How many cups? Depends on cup size. C? D?
Steve, that's a good one I was thinking along the lines of "how many licks to the center of a tootsie roll pop"
LOL, it looks like it's sticking its tongue out at you for packing it so full!
Looks like Steve needs to do some safety wiring!
I use white lithium grease in several of the grease cups. Steve's picture is showing the starter switch, I hope he has added a fuse somewhere in the circuit that feeds the wiring harness, that hot terminal is where I added mine.
The upper ball joint bolts use castle nuts and cotter pins, it's the lower ones that thread into a blind hole and have to be safety wired.
Thanks Steve Jelf. 18! I will sleep better tonight. That is alot of turning on and off. I dont know if I will give up the grease gun just yet. I used gun to greases rear bearings after rebuild. Cant over fill them with modern seal because it oozes out after removing the gun. Yes makes quite the mess. Now I know the number is 18 cups I can check out your video of OCF. I have looked forward to viewing it all day.
I've experienced the same problem,....that of refilling and screwing down that U-joint grease cup,....over, and over, and OVER,..... again, again and again! And I hate to admit it, but I never had the patience that Steve had, to continue that operation until grease began to ooze out, indicating that the ball housing is full!
So, that prompts a thought in my feeble mind that will probably sound ridiculous, but I manage to make a fool of myself quite often on the forum, so what's once more, right?
I really do think that the replacement grease cup with the zerk fitting for a grease gun built into it really makes good sense, but how about this,..... ???
I have this "vision" of some sort of simple adaptor for your portable variable speed reversible drill chuck that would quickly and easily screw the grease cup all the way down and all the way back up very quickly and easily. With a decent chuck with slip clutch like is so common on portable drills nowadays, there would be little chance of doing any damage by too much force (torque) and there must be several simple ways of attaching such an adaptor, such as the several ways valve lapping tools are attached to poppet valves. Does this make any sense?
Larry Bohlen, I have been thinking about that the whole time. "How many turns will it take to get the center filed with grease from a grease cup", LOL!!
I have done as others have, I tapped my grease cup for a modern zerk fitting. Once the cup cap is on, no one knows.
That was before I had a rubber tipped attachment for my grease gun, but to me, I'd still do the zerk fitting. To each there own. I keep Napa Zerk fittings on hand, Attached is a pic of them and the part#'s for those interested. Small ones for small cups, large ones for the large cups. 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT threads respectively.
Be careful taping the grease cups. I have found some to be very difficult to tap, but was afraid to drill, or drill bigger than I already had for the tap. Most times you can tap without drilling, just don't break your tap off. Experience is key here.
For those that may have a worn upper drive shaft bushing and use thin grease at the universal joint you may want to check the oil level of your differential occasionally. I had a '24 years ago where the oil level in the differential magically rose over time to where I occasionally had to open the plug to drain the level down.
The U-joint cup, I use modern zerk. The only time anyone can see it is with the floor out. The other's, I tapped a screw on cap and put it on any of the other cups that I want to grease. That way with the correct cap back on the small ones, everything looks stock.
I guess that I am in the minority....
For the U-joint I use a latex gloved hand and with my thumb I simply pack a glob of grease and force it into the open cup about 6 or 7 times until the grease oozes out the joint. Mastering the right technique makes it go really fast and efficient! Once full I pack the cap and screw it down a few turns and leave it there until next time.
I do the same with my index finger (instead of my thumb) for the smaller dope cups on the drive shaft and rear axle.
A few years ago a T was bought from an estate sale. The owner had it from new. The salesman said 2 screws every day, and that is what the owner did.
When stripping it down grease was packed solid right down the torque tube, through the diff housing and back out to the wheel hubs !
It seems he screwed down that cap every day, whether the car was used or not!
I guess it was well protected from rust.........
(A true story, I kid you not)
Good on you, Mike. That is exactly how I do it, very simple. I do the same on the other grease cups too!
I must have enough grease in mine cause it's oozing out around the ball. I packed it completely full when I put the car together. I put a grease fitting in my cup. I might give it a few pumps before I drive it again.
I had a T come in for some service & repair a number of years ago after the fellow drove it from Chicago to Seattle - first time even driving a Model T (I heard he was going to write a book about his adventures) and when I tore the rear axle assembly apart, it was completely packed with chassis grease !!!
Mine oozes out from around the ball shortly after a drive, not during the drive - makes me wonder if I should add a vent to the rear axle assembly somewhere.