I am getting ready to plumb the carbide lights on my 1914 runabout. I am not sure how the brass line that runs along the frame from the carbide tank to the radiator is supposed to be routed. Any information regarding the proper route would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be even better!
Here is a photo RV furnished some time ago of the location of the "rear gas line" in a new car at the factory. As he noted, you can't see the ends but you do see it is held by a single clamp and runs behind the block in the lower inside corner of the frame.
Some clamps have pronounced "eye" but mine looks just like the one in the photo and works just fine.
Ken in Texas
The 1914 uses a radiator with an acetylene cross over tube attached to the radiator. Here are some phots that Phil Mino posted:
I don't know the total length of the straight tube, but for comparison, on my 1911 the back to front total length is about 46". On the 1911 it is on the outside on the frame rail, on the 1914 it is on the inside.
Tubing is 1/4" brass (do NOT use copper)
Take a look here:
: ^ )
Thank you both very much this is exactly what I needed!
Why do you say “do not use copper”?
See that little hole between the two bolts that hold the controller shaft to the frame in the photo above? That is an oil hole, and needs a squirt every now and then. There was a post on this subject recently.
Adam, something to do with chemical reactions. I don't recall what, but it's said to be dangerous. Good time to re-visit the issue with facts !
Russ, when I plumbed my '13, the wisdom of the forum suggested the brass gasline should be 46". The length works well. At the time there was detail on the clamp to the frame, I see I should be writing this stuff down ! Sorry for not providing links, I'm mostly 'puter illiterate.
The long, straight tube from the generator hose to the front of the car is 44" long.
The lines were brass originally, but early texts on acetylene gas warn against the use of copper lines and fittings because the gas can react with the copper and form explosive acetylides. However, this doesn't really apply to the T because, in a properly functioning system, any slight amounts of explosives that might form are carried away by the flowing acetylene and burned at the lamps before anything can build up. I believe the warnings apply mostly to storing the gas in any copper lines or tanks.
R.V., thanks for that, now I've got to cut 2" off of mine !!
I also wondered about the danger of copper fittings since all of the tips on my oxy-acetene rig are copper !
I'd think brass is best for the line anyway, being more rigid.
Nah, don't cut it, just lengthen the frame by 2".
The 44" length takes the brass rear gas line to just past the front running board support resulting in a gentle sweep of the gas hose up through the hole punched in the splash shield. If you are using a carbide generator, any moisture would accumulate at this low point.
Ken in Texas
Just slide the red rubber hose up 2" farther...
: ^ )