Is this babbit flaking on #3 main bearing upper surface a concern?
The bearing cap also is showing a diagonal crack in the bearing surface. Any suggestions ?
I'm sure many will have different opinions, so here's my two cent's worth (and I apply this to most car issues, except for safety issues).
It depends on how much you drive your car. If it's an occasional around-town driver, I'd put it back together and run it. You still have some shims left, which means your bearings aren't too worn away. Believe me, There are Ts that have been run for many miles with much worse!
If you're going to do a lot of driving, like big tours and the like, a new babbitt job would be in order.
I'd remove a shim and use Timesaver.
It was never stuck to the tinning. It will not heal it's self.
Why go all through that work, and have it to do again at a later date, with all new gaskets and time, or leaving you out on the road somewhere.
That flange isn't stuck, and if it is on the rear, and comes off, it may take the mag. with it.
Time saver has never held any bodys Babbitt from coming out.
Well I've decided to bite the babbit (pun intended) and repour the mains... I would like to do some touring in the future, so it doesn't make sense to leave a marginal babbit job to chance...problem is I don't know of any shops in my neck-of-the-woods that does babbiting except for the guys that poured these, don't think I wanna go back to them.
Dave: If the last picture is of the #3 main bearing cap it looks like something is out of alignment the upper Left and lower right of that picture shows the babbit is much thinner than the opposing corners I would check that out and not just assume that a line bore will correct any misalignment. If that were a rod cap it would be a sure sign of a twisted rod.
That cap was installed at rather an angle before the babbit was machined. It may be an idea to check the fit prior to having a new bearing job done. It should be easy to find another cap which is better aligned.
Allan from down under.
Old eye balls! #3
The shims are still sitting on the cap.
Hi Dave, I think you have a problem! Give me a call tomorrow and we can talk about a time line. My shop is just about ready.
I had a Babbitt done on the mains for the first time a few years back.
Not knowing what I know now the job was all most as bad as the pictures posted with what looks like wood rasp marks on the block removing excess Babbitt edges above the block. Caps had Babbitt folded between the cap and block after bolting down holding the cap up at one end and more issues I could see even not knowing the correct method at that time.
I would suggest spending some time seeing Mike Benders method using the Gene French jig. I don't know how to post the link.
old eye balls indeed ...I had to take a second look to realize that the shims were the visual effect that seemed to be an alignment issue ...BUT , the staining on the shims seems to indicate a poor parallel contact between the cap and block ...I would wonder if the caps will rock back and forth and not seat properly when the mainbearing bolts are torqued ?I am always an optimist ...BUT ...I would do some careful inspection of all fit details , and correct as needed ...always an optimist ...gene French
Yes, the babbitt job looks amateurish. But doesnít look much worse than engines Iíve taken apart that appear to have been babbited back in the day. Aside from the crack in the cap, and a flange on the back but not the front; The very biggest issue I see here is how DIRTY the engine, pan, and transmission must have been before re-assembly!!! If you get this motor re-babbiited and donít get every speck of dirt and carbon out of the engine, trans, and pan, then you will likely have just as short bearing life as you would if you just put it back together as it is.
Dirt and other contaminants inside the engine are likely the single largest cause of wear in T engines.