I am in the process of rewiring my 1915 Roadster and need a detailed diagram on how the wiring process should be completed. I need info from the firewall to the Coil Box and then how it is wired from the ignition key to inside the coil box. Also I want to electrify the head lights, and tail light. Did the 1915 come stock with a terminal box? Any help with proper wiring methods would be appreciated.
Greg..I think Fun Projects might have what you need on-line. I do know when you buy their excellent coil box rebuild kit it comes with great wiring instructions. If you need to "re-wood" your box, I highly recommend John's waterproof rebuild kit. I put on in my former '15. I don't think the '15 came with a terminal box (block). They only had a switch on the firewall to activate the mag headlamps.
These should help you. There is no terminal strip or box. The cloth covered wires are held to the wood firewall with insulated paper electrical tacks. The main loom down the passenger side has rubber dust cover caps at both ends.
The coil box is wired inside to direct magneto AC current or battery DC current to the coil box as the switch is thrown from BAT to MAG. The wires are embedded in the base of the coil box wood that go to the rear of the switch.
Headlamps and tail would be wired to magneto AC and used magneto bulbs, or other bulb to burn with the up to 30v AC from the magneto. The power wire to the push-pull switch on the dash to control the lamps. Lamps are grounded to the frame.
If using a small DC battery for start assistance, that battery is placed some where safe, grounded to frame, and positive lead to the coil box porcelain standoff on the passenger side of the fire wall. This photo shows the wire from that coil box terminal under the dash to a battery.
Here is a picture of the inside of the 1916 coil box switch.
Be very careful that there is no path between MAG and BAT. That will zap your magnets. The switch COMMON connection goes to the bottom contact strip in the box.
A clarification on the tail light: The stock 1915 light is a kerosene lamp. You will need to adapt for electric.
If you intend to do any actual night driving by magneto light, here's my experience. On a familiar road, it's adequate but barely so. On an unfamiliar road, especially one with curves, it's frighteningly dangerous unless you creep along in low gear.
Magneto bulbs are a compromise. If you use six volt bulbs the higher voltage produced by the mag is likely to burn them out. Higher voltage bulbs are more likely to survive, but are dimmer. The bulbs sold for magneto lights by the parts dealers are 24 volts. I'm sure they will survive wonderfully, but I found them utterly worthless for lighting. My comments above on magneto lights are based on the twelve volt bulbs I'm currently running. I leave my lights on all the time, day or night, and I haven't had a burnout yet. Last month I got some actual nine volt magneto bulbs at Hershey, but I haven't tried them yet.
In your electrical project something here may be useful: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html
Steve's link shows a very clever and simple method of charging a small battery from the standard Ford magneto. If you're wondering about the 1156 bulb in the circuit, it's serving as a current limiter and will be lit any time the engine is running. With a little more clever wiring it could be used as a dash light. If the bulb ever goes out the circuit will go open and stop charging the battery. Just replace the bulb.
I was out of town the last few days and I really appreciate all of the advice and reference material. It will help with completing the last step prior to starting up my car for the first time in one year. I have flushed the radiator and gas tank.