I apologize for hijacking another thread earlier about this.
I bought a "rebuilt" ignition switch assembly on Ebay a while back. I notice that when the key is inserted, I can spin the ignition lock tumbler a full 360 degrees, there's nothing to stop it at the "MAG" or "BAT" positions.
I took it apart a little while ago to see if something was broken, see the attached pics.
There are tangs and slots to limit the travel of the light switch, but nothing that I can see that would limit the travel of the ignition switch.
Can someone who has rebuilt these in the past comment on whether this switch assembly is missing a part? Thanks!
(Message edited by cudaman on November 16, 2017)
I see 1 part missing at least, for the want of a proper term you are missing a piece from the key cylinder to the rotating switch contact, that is a clip style switch. I have been waiting for a repair kit for that style for several months from a vendor. I have to get up to speed on this adding a photo business. I bought a new production switch and panel assembly, it came with new screws w/flat washers to hold the terminals for the wiring harness. True to most reproduction parts the screws are wrong (smaller)and even the washers are so small they need to be bigger because the terminals slip thru.
George, I will send you a PM with my email address so that you can email a pic of the missing part to me. Maybe once I see it, I can fabricate a copy of it for my switch.
Mark you are missing the ignition contact, it will look something like this one.
Langs carries good quality replacement parts for this switch.
Thanks, but I do have the ignition contact, the back side of it is shown in my second picture. I showed the back side to show the slot that slips over the lock tumbler, allowing the ignition contact to turn when the lock turns.
It looks like I am missing the square piece on the far left of the Lang's picture. It looks like the four slots in the inner circle mate with the four folded over tabs on the back of the ignition contact.
I contacted the seller about the issue, if I can't get satisfaction from him I will order the rebuild kit from Lang's and rebuild mine (again).
Langs is out of that kit, mine has been back ordered for months ! Mark you are missing that contact plus the part I have tried to describe. I can take a photo tomorrow unless someone else steps up to the plate.
Mark, I am wrong, you are only missing the contact, my mistake looked at your picture again. Guess I goofed.
Mark, might be an aftermarket switch guts. Ok while I have not seen hundreds of switches, I have never seen the guts like you have. I wonder if it was made up of different switches. There were a few other cars that had this same switch with different key numbers. The switches were made by outside company not Ford and they supplied other car makers, even some boat etc.
Here are a couple more pics showing the front side of the ignition contact of my switch assembly. The bases for the various pieces are made of thick cardboard.
Mark, I better stop I am getting lost on this one. There is at least 3 styles of switches, the clip type you have, and 2 three pin types, one made by CLUM has no service parts available.
Your tumbler sits too far into the switch body so they removed the pointed tabs that limit how far you can turn left or right. As it is now you would have to relie on the divets to stop the key from turning. Note the pointed arrow shaped thing that reach into the sleeve the tumbler fit into. The rectangular part reaches up into the switch and the rest rides under the pointed tabs. While this is the pin type the folded tab type would have the same guts.
Ah, I see now, thanks Mark!
I'll take a close look to see if there are worn off remnants of the pointed tabs.
Maybe I can fabricate a new, raised piece with the pointed tabs at the proper height for my lock cylinder and attach it to my housing.