My rear view mirrors just will not stay put. They are the new clamp-on style for open cars sold by the vendors. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, have you found a remedy? I tried rubber pads but that didn't help. How did they mount other than these clamp-ons? Do any vendors sell a different type? I'd really like to find an old black one that mounts securely. I've thought of using the one that mounts to the center of the windshield frame but with the top up I doubt if I could see well enough with the two small back windows. Ideas? Thanks
Ditto- the clamp on ones are terrible.
Use a Model A mirror that bolts thru the windshield. Another advantage to this mirror is that it dosen' vibrate as much. This is the mirror Lang's recommended after my clamp on mirror broke off. Lang's sells them as do other vendors.
The clamp on mirrors don’t clamp well and shake all over the place making it real hard to see what’s behind you on the road. They’ve been that way for decades. Nobody must send them back or complain...
Which year and which mirror ? I got this new repro for my '13, pretty, but really lacking in fit and function. It would never do to clamp on the windshield frame as intended, but worked well on the brace with a "caul" of garden hose around the brace. No wonder the old ones sell quickly when they turn up in the classifieds !
Thanks Donald, I'll look into that.
Rich, mine are just like yours but my car is a 23 so the stanchion is the only option and they get loose no matter what I have thought of so far.
John, I had to put a block in the sheet metal arms to keep the tightening screw from just collapsing the stampings. If you take some stock off the inside edges to clear the frame, a caul of thin rubber sheet may work for you yet. Problem is, the clamping of the mirror arm is limited to the "return" of the stampings. They'll never hold metal to metal, and of course will scar up your paint that way. I hope this helps you some.
If you are not worried about authenticity even though it can be returned to normal easily, you could use motorcycle mirrors like I did on my 23. These are from a Harley dealership that were on sale. A right mirror has the correct bend to fit on the left and the left works on the right. They fit tight and don't vibrate. Location is similar to what you are used to in your modern car as well. This pic is me teaching my 11 year old granddaughter Taya to drive.
Rubber (inner tube) pad and thick gasket paper to keep the clamp from cutting into the rubber.
Wrap the pads onto the window frame and shove on the clamp.
Put in the bolt and tighten it up and you're ready to drive. Note the paint damage below the clamp. Originally I didn't use the gasket material. The clamp cut into the rubber and the whole works slid down the frame.
Does it jiggle? Sure, this is a Model T. But it's not so bad that you can't see the traffic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNhMiW67cmw
Noel, How do those mirrors attach?
Have that same brass repro mirror on the '23. This one is old, tarnished and was missing the brass fasteners. So just used modern bolt and acorn nut with lockwasher.
No padding, just smack up tight on the stanchion and it doesn't wiggle at all
I bought a set of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-T-Ford-rear-view-mirror-1916-1927/161589139780?_t rkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49478%26meid%3Dcfd356961e 1b49f2a75538af3d8e2f0f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D381156361198&_tr ksid=p2047675.c100005.m2219
I like them and think they may be the best looking reproductions out there. They are well built.
Steve that is essentially what I have tried but these mirrors don't allow me to tighten up even using 1/8" rubber from a large truck tube. If the padding gets too thick the mirror doesn't go on to the stanchion far enough and thinner material results in the clamp body closing up before any tension is achieved. Thanks to you and others for the input but I think these mirrors are going into the holding bin. There has to be a better way.
Bought these from Bill Bohlen at Chickasha. No more clamp on issues for me. He is listed on Suppliers page.
Thanks Kirk! That's more like it AND they are black!
Any mirror will vibrate and be useless but if you get a convex mirror that makes things smaller and glue it over the flat mirror the fact that it is convex cures the blur you get from a flat mirror's vibration. You can even get a cheap one with a broken mirror and hide it with the glue on one. find out the sizes of glue on mirrors and then hunt for a truck mirror of that size. This works on the clamp on mirrors too.
Those convex mirrors are so good that we got an STC bulletin from the FAA to glue it to the inside edge of the right tip tank on any plane so equipped so we could see if the wheels were up or down. Initially we installed it on the Cessna 310's and 340's.
I just realized Pete H listed the same mirror as I did a few posts before me.
They are great mirrors. I dabbed a little black paint on the phillips screws in an attempt to hide them.
Well, I also missed it when Pete posted. Encroaching senility. Thanks for posting Pete.
The cheapie, clamp-on, "hind-view" mirrors, with their stamped, sheet-metal mounting arms, are absolutely worthless junk. -After dealing with mine for a couple of years, I tossed it in the garbage. -For a brass car like yours, the only right answer (in my humble, but always correct opinion) would be this fancy, high-quality but rather pricey, rectangular brass mirror which, at least for now, can still be purchased from Mac's.
My understanding is that the overseas manufacturer who made these is no longer doing so, which is why the oval-shaped version of this mirror is no longer available anywhere. -That means if you want this rectangular type, you need to move on it fast (and no, I don't have stock in the company). -Here's where you can get it:
Unlike the ball & socket swivel-head on that worthless piece-of-junk "hind-view" mirror, which forced you to mount it on your car's small-diameter windshield brace, the head on this fancy mirror can be rotated 360 degrees and it can telescope out several inches as well, which means you can clamp the mirror onto the slanted bottom half of your 1913 windshield frame with no problem.
Thanks Bob !! I'm always right too, except for when I bought that mirror.
If you use the mirror that has the replacement extended threads, my mirror rotates with all the shaking. I found that the star locking washer with points on the inside and on the outside stops the rotation. I am sure this is not original but the sand in this mirror helps steady the reflection.
John, My 23 had a carriage bolt that went through that spot. I simply removed it and replaced it with the mirror, through the wooden post underneath like the carriage bolt did, and placed a washer and nut on it. Since it doesn't have the square shank of the carriage bolt, it wants to rotate but putting a rubber washer under it and on the wood on the inside before putting on the washer and nut tightened it up and it works fine.