Starter rebuilding

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Starter rebuilding
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 01:22 am:

Well, This thread could belong in either classifieds or forum.

In researching this endeavor if you rebuild it yourself it would cost in parts approximately $150.00 and if you purchased a rebuilt one it could cost in the vicinity of $400.00, both reasonable options. However, a problem arises when you decide to rebuild it yourself, that is, after pouring the babbit for the end cone and machining said babbit one needs a jig to mount to a lathe to preform this task. The average person does not have a jig let alone a lathe. Basically, I have two questions: one; Can you use a bronze bushing in place of the babbit? and two; Is there someone who manufactures this jig?

Ya, I know have someone rebuild it for you. This is not the point. I, along with a lot of people have so much to do and little time to do it. Therefore, one needs to delegate some authority every once in a while.

Suggestions? Bronze versus babbit versus time versus money?

I'll check back after physical therapy in the morning and before I start the Thanksgiving eve festivities.

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 07:38 am:

It needs to be bored in line with the bore for the shaft bushing and perpendicular to the machined flange...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 07:53 pm:

Yes, that is correct. You need some sort of jig to preform this task. As stated above anyone building the jig for sale and can you use bronze bushing?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matt the Headlight Lens Guy n California on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 08:56 pm:

John,
I feel your pain! I donít really want to pay $400 for a rebuilt starter. I put some parts together from three starters. But even then it was not correct and doesnít turn over my engine.

Perhaps someone would sell the part we need with the babbitt it work and a new bushing/seal...

Matt


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 10:16 pm:

If you have a lathe, just set it up in your four jaw chuck (nose out) and indicate off the bore for the shaft bushing. Or machine a mandrel that you can press into the shaft bushing bore, then indicate the mandrel in your four jaw. Can also be set up nose in, indicated in and bored with a long heavy boring bar. There are also a variety of ways to do it on a milling machine...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Saylor, Citrus Heights, Ca on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 11:11 pm:

I use a ball bearing and a spacer that I get from
Langs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john hardiman on Thursday, November 23, 2017 - 11:17 pm:

Hope everyone had a good day today!!!

I have a lathe and milling machine. I could make the fixture. However, in my postings, I was curious if anyone made this fixture because if someone did at a reasonable price I could be doing something else T related.

Was forced to retire due to medical conditions, time management is crucial.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Anthonie Boer --- Klaaswaal NL on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 03:41 am:

John , this is what I made to rebuild the nose of a starter.
0170M
0171M
Toon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen, South Texas on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 08:59 am:

I used a similar setup except I have a ring that registers on the yoke area and a pressed in guide for a shop made piloted reamer. The reamer is sized to remove the old babbitt and a small portion of the cast iron snout. This allows the use of an off-the-shelf brass busing. The chuck jaws clamp onto the pressed in guide.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan McEachern on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 10:53 am:

The only off the shelf bushing you need is a Model A wrist pin bushing. No need to bore out the casting for a different one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen, South Texas on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 02:47 pm:

Too thin and flimsy. You have to glue those in and hope they stay. And it means I'd have to order/buy from a Model A vendor and pay double or 10x with shipping. :-)


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