Getting ready to paint my steering column soon (probably) and it's going to be the same paint as the chassis.
What paint do you all use? I have seen POR 15 will turn grey and rustoleum does the same...
I have used Rustbullet Blackshell for a few years now and it works great. The gloss hasn't faded or even scratched, and I use it on the running boards..no sign of wear what so ever...love it.
Has anyone used any tractor enamel? I see some people on here who have used it but no updates on how well it stands up to the sun...
I've used Rustoleum gloss black, even on steering columns!
Larry, how does it hold up? As said, I've heard that it works great and doesn't turn grey or flake, and then I've heard it's horrible and flakes and stuff.
I use tractor enamel. It holds up well but doesn't have a high gloss. It dries slow enough to brush and flows out nicely. I used it on both the chassis and body of this car 15 years ago. The body and fenders were sprayed. Wheels and chassis were brushed. It also is not as toxic as many modern paints. I like it.
I use satin black Rustoleum on chassis parts like engine, pan, axles, springs, etc., because a high gloss there looks wrong to me. I've never had any problems with it flaking off or fading. BUT any paint will flake off galvanized or cad plated hardware if you don't strip off the plating. When I do that I also use a metal prep. It doesn't need a primer.
For "body" parts that are out where they show even though they're part of the chassis, I use glossy epoxy appliance enamel. I would include the steering column and the wheels in that category.
I used the appliance enamel on these wheels five years ago and they look the same today.
I use por 15 gloss black or centari 99a
Richard, that photo just sold me on tractor enamel I think. FANTASTIC! Body too?!?
I'm trying to go for a factory look, or as close as possible but also I want something that will last. It appears in our photo to be a semi gloss or around there?
Steve, any brands you would recommend? Rustoleum states on the can i think that their appliance stuff is not meant to go on things exposed to UV?
Oh, and Richard, what brand did you use? I haven't done much paint work yet, so i don't know this stuff , did you use primer or just straight onto the metal?
POR-15 is good stuff for the right application. I haven't used it in many years unless they have changed the formulation, at that time directions stated it should be top coated, as it is very susceptible to UV exposure and will eventually decay and flake.
I use Rustoleum semi gloss black. Sticks to dirt and grease on spots I can't clean.
John, I buy Van Sickle tractor, equipment & industrial enamel from our local Cal Ranch store. I see it on Amazon for $27.99 to $33.99 per gallon depending on the color.
I also have had good luck with Rustoleum. Por 15 is good to encapsulate rust. I use it on inside body surfaces where the UV won't get to it.
Everyone has a paint that works well for them. I have used these and have stayed with them.
This has nothing to do with painting a T, but I started using Krylon "Fusion" paint. It's designed for plastics of all things, but requires no primer and dries VERY quickly.
Okay, now for the testimony. I painted a used, sanded overhead rack for my pickup five years ago with the Fusion satin black. That truck is parked in my driveway, winter and summer, and the paint still looks satin black with no flaking. Considering that I really didn't prepare it that well, that's pretty darn good performance. I wouldn't be afraid to use it on a chassis at all.
Thanks everyone for your input!
I will paint my chassis black with that tractor paint and paint the cowl, hood, and rest of body panels on my speedster with auto paint.
Feel free to add on anyone! I'm sure this will help others in the future.
The appliance epoxy enamel I use is the Ace Hardware house brand. So far so good.
If you look at any factory Ford photo, all the chassis parts are always gloss black. Same thing with upholstery. I finally found some shiny black leather upholstery. Hard to find these days.
Granted, I'm only doing a refurbish on my 26/27 hillbilly RPU, I would think any paint you use now days would be better than what was available back in the day. That being said, I've been using Rust-oleum for the chassis, and running gear. Have bead blasted or sand blasted the parts before primer and paint. So far, I'm happy with the results. The plan is to use "real" paint for the body parts.
Dave, what type rustoleum? Right now I'm also thinking the good old appliance epoxy enamel may be okay... not sure! The rustoleum enamel is glossier than the tractor enamel... but still not sure if it's uv resistant
John, for the sandblasted frame used brushed on Rust-oleum gray enamel primer, and brushed on gloss black. The finish was good but had a few brush marks. For the 2nd coat of black used plain old spray can gloss black. Turned out nice and removed the brush marks. Good thing about the frame painting was when I started to assemble parts on the frame and needed to remove paint to bare metal (battery carrier) it was easy to touch up. Not too concerned about the frame and bits that attach. Frame will not be in the sun when finished. Have been using spray can Rust-oleum primer and top coat on the blasted parts. Motor parts (except block) have been painted with plain old engine enamel after being bead blasted. After the engine is finished I'll paint the block with the 500 degree engine enamel after a scotchbrite clean up. Same paint that I used on the engine parts without primer. The manifolds and hold downs have been painted with 1200 degree BBQ paint. Keep in mind this is a refurbish, not a full restore. Just trying to put together a good running T with a protected by paint RPU. I have a ways to go on this project, but so far it's looking good.
The only part of the engine that really needs a high-temp paint is the exhaust manifold. While a factory photo from the teens indicates it got the same "Gilsonite wash" slopped on it as the rest of the engine, I use VHT clear to leave it looking like unpainted cast iron. For the rest of the engine, including the intake manifold, ordinary Rustoleum satin black is fine.
Glossy may be "correct", but I hated the way this looked.
I much prefer the gloss toned down to a satin finish, and leave the gloss for body parts.
Perfect. Thank you for the info!
My engine is 1927 so I'll be doing that olive green. I think it's more of a toned down gloss too, not sure.
Here's the cutaway 1927 engine at Greenfield Village. I think it's a pretty good guide for color and finish.
I use the engine enamel because it's fuel and oil resistant. Thinking I'll have small leaks before everything is figured out, one less thing to worry about. Would hate to mess up a nice looking engine with paint being washed away.