The sediment bowl on my 1920 T is seeping gasoline. Not a lot - just enough that you can smell the discharge when walking past the car. I know of products to use on the threads to resolve the problem.
My question is this: When affixing the bowl to the gas tank, how tight should it be? Also, I want to redirect the fuel line so that it no longer crosses over the exhaust pipe and runs along the chassis. I would like to have it run parallel to the exhaust pipe, as I have seen previously posted pictures on the forum. The key is properly securing the bowl so the fuel line does just that.
Appreciate any insight!
Lots of prior discussions on sediment bulbs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sediment+bulb+tightening+mtfca&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS7 37US737&oq=sediment+bulb+tightening+mtfca&aqs=chrome..69i57.7130j1j7&sourceid=ch rome&ie=UTF-8
That sediment bowl is pipe thread, it can't be tighten any more than the taper threads allow.
Actually, new tanks use today's pipe thread form and new sediment bulbs do too. So the bulb threads in rather deep.
Old tanks can use new bulbs and usually seat a bit away from the front facing position of gas outlet on the bulb, you can place where you want and use a good sealant as long as the taper threads turn tight and snug (i.e. no wiggle left or right when the bulb is placed with sealant.
Routing the gas line is just bending it carefully where you want it to go. Factory routing usually is best.
New repro tank and new repro sediment bulb, threads in part way and is firm with modern form pipe taper threads.
New tank with original sediment bulb that has older form pipe threads, it seats rather deep in the tank fitting, but firm. (Note: white Teflon tape isn't recommended on fitting, was removed on this install and replaced with Permatex gas proof sealant.)
Ford routing line under the exhaust pipe
If you shape the gas line like this it works well IMO.
Many thanks, guys!
I have found just the opposite, Dan - several new tanks with Snyder's new sediment bulbs bottom right out. Have made calls to both Snyder's and the fellow who manufactures the new tanks with no remedy !
Just to reassure you, this gas tank was received just this month from Lang's after a few months backorder. So it's the latest new tank. A couple of years ago I sent to the tank builder an original tank outlet from a bad tank so he could check on the thread form. Guess he has still used 'modern' today's pipe thread cutters.
New tank with new repro sediment bulb, placed in tank as it would be under the T. The new bulb seats firm with finger tight at this spot, which is just past facing as it needs to be! Still has threads showing, but is snug at this spot.
Original bulb in new tank, it seats all the way, no threads and still is a bit loose and it's fully to the rear of front facing! Have many original bulbs and they all seat this way too.
These need either wrap to have them seat front facing tight, or sealant, many times have to do both
Glad to hear the "issue" might have been remedied ! I resorted to adding solder to the new sediment bulb thread so I actually had some "meat" to work with for outlet location.
I was informed by the fellow who took over the repro tank business that there was a batch of outlet castings that apparently were threaded too deep by some "summer help" resulting in some/alot of tanks going out that way - he sent me a replacement tank himself that I ordered this spring for a '13 I was working on - better fit this last time also.
N.P.T. haven't been changed to the best of my knowledge.....still the same thread form. The distance the fitting will go into the tank is governed by how deep the tank fitting was tapped.
The idea of adding solder to the sediment bulb is a good one.....far better than any teflon tape.